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Jim Adney wrote: >I had 2 AT AARS here, so I measured them and they are 14 and 15.3 >Ohms. They respond to the combined temp of their heater and the >engine, so I suspect that they are working just as they should, or >they may free up a bit more with a bit more use. I think you've got >it licked. > > > Seems like it. Bear in mind all my testing is going on in a cold garage at around 9:00pm at night, with the outside temps hovering in the mid-low 20s, and the engine lid isn't on. That MAY be a factor in the failure to shut completely. :) Last night I did play around adjusting the idle to see if the engine would behave properly at ~950RPM. It does- it oscillates +-<50RPM, which I think is acceptable. Once my AAR is sorted out completely, I'll readjust the idle again. I bet this AAR hadn't been working for years, and whoever was servicing the car just kept compensating by adjusting the idle air bypass, since per Jim closing off the AAR port completely shouldn't drop the RPMs to 5-600. I checked for vacuum at the vac. advance port on the IAD, and I'm getting vacuum now when I open up the throttle. So, this appears to be resolved. I'm going to check the advance mechanism to be certain it's working properly, and lube up the proper spots on the breaker plate. Now my challenge, since it's a long lost art for me, is properly adjusting the point gap to achieve the 50deg dwell. I keep thinking I'm adjusting lower and lower gap-wise, but I don't see the dwell angle change. Is there a trick to doing this? I had it gapped to .012 and I was still at 44deg. I had initially adjusted wider (got my logic wrong) and got a dwell angle of 38- but I just couldn't seem to get it past 44. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~