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Re: [T3] Generator Light/funny voltage


<x-flowed>andy wrote:
it is not charging and then starts charging.
which is odd.
you replaced the regulator with a new one? and same symptom?

problem is pretty consistant?

maybe a wiring problem. it is odd.
where are you reading the voltage?


__________________________________________________________________________ andy miami fl 64 'lenore' 68 'slowpoke' daughters 71 squareback (nameless) T2 buy/sell babysitter www.type2.com/~andy __________________________________________________________________________ ICQ 109998779 AIM - bulli64 __________________________________________________________________________ Philosopy of Leswests * We like to enjoy the good things in life. * We are in favor of activities which don't cost much. * We prefer to camp outside of campings,even if it's not too legal. * We don't bother much about keeping our West's as neet or closer as possible to the original look of a Westfalias, we prefer the utility and the personnality of the vehicule. * We try to repair ourselves our Wests. * We try to help each other at the most. * We wanna have fun! _________________________________________________________________________


My volt meter is permanently mounted so as to read off of the fuse
block.  Yesterday I monkeyed about, and may have found the voltage
leak.  The driver's door switch controls the interior light and the "key
left in" buzzer.  I replaced this switch with a "new" old switch, but
have never had the buzzer work, except when I short across two of the
leads at the switch.  I think that the reason the buzzer hasn't worked
is that the tab on the ignition plug is broken off, so that the contact
which "closes" by the key being left in the ignition never makes closure
(no male going into the female connector).  I hope that this is the
issue, as I have now de-energized the buzzer circuit in its entirety to
see if the leakage of electrons which appears to be an "overnight"
phenomenon is corrected now.
Yes, new voltage regulator and generator have been installed, and
problem did persist after that.  I will email further once I have had
time today to re-evaluate this fix.

-----------------

Yes, in fact today's re-eval shows that all is now well. Does anyone have replacement driver door switch, as the double pole/single throw switch (my "new" old one) seems to now be defective...the interior light was becoming very intermittent, and one side of the switch is now really defective, so I swapped leads (the light now works well) and de-energized the buzzer circuit, which never worked before, and now is found to be the source of my voltage drop. I think the 1970 onward T3's had this double circuit switch, whereas pre-1970 there was no buzzer circuit, just the light.


-- Will McCreight whmcc@attglobal.net Portland, OR (208) 661-6262 cell


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