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Re: [T3] Top Torsion Bar Question


<x-flowed>At 4:27 PM -0800 1/22/06, Doug Brashear wrote:

Is this i common problem? Is it something I can simply adjust out?

Yes, and yes.

It is a little tricky to get the hang of what's going on with the mounting of the upper torsion bar and how it's adjusted, and in many of these old cars it has worn differently from how the manuals expected them to wear.

The bar runs through the top tube, of course. However, the two ends are very different. One end has a flat on the side, right at the end of the bar. There is a sort of conical dimple machined into this flat. This end of the torsion bar is designed to be fixed in place by a conical-tipped socket head (iirc) screw that's mounted in the top of the trailing arm, vertically, in a threaded hole in the trailing arm. It's supposed to seat down tightly in the matched dimple machined in the torsion bar, and hold that end fixed. There is a big lock nut around the socket head screw to keep it locked down. If you like, the torsion bar and the trailing arm on this fixed side become as one single unit, like a giant letter "L", sort of.

The other end of the torsion bar is different. Its end has been drilled and threaded along the torsion bar's axis. The trailing arm for this side slides onto the bar, and a bolt mounts horizontally through an unthreaded hole in this trailing arm, and then screws into the torsion bar itself. This *single* screw is used to draw the trailing arm and the torsion bar together, and pull *both* trailing arms up tight to the front beam assembly.

Now! Manuals expect slight wear to develop due to the pivoting of the trailing arms, and the way to get rid of such wear is to tighten up (but don't overtighten!) this horizontal bolt. Trouble is, is that for many Type IIIs, unexpected wear has occurred at the *other* end of the torsion bar. Remember that little dimple in the flat of that end of the torsion bar, where the set screw jams into the conical dimple? Well, that dimple gets beaten up, and can wear into a little trough. There is now slop where the set screw meets the torsion bar, and it no longer secures the assembly sufficiently.

You could try an adjustment at the intended-to-be-adjusted end, and this might help for a bit, but, as the car drives, it will beat up on this set screw and its troughed dimple, which aren't really mated properly, and it will quickly become loose again.

So, the trick is to take care of the set screw end. If the damage to the torsion bar is not too bad, you may very well be able to get away with loosening the other side to get some slack, tightening the set screw so that it finds home jammed into the lowest part of the troughed dimple, and then adjusting the meant-to-be-adjusted side according to spec. This procedure worked well for my on my '71.

Hope this helps, and is at least a little bit clear!

-Greg

p.s.: as you can tell, I forget if the dimple is on the left or right side. I think it's the left, and the adjuster is on the right... but I forget. :)

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