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Re: [T3] Top Torsion Bar Question
<x-flowed>At 4:27 PM -0800 1/22/06, Doug Brashear wrote:
Is this i common problem? Is it something I can simply adjust out?
Yes, and yes.
It is a little tricky to get the hang of what's going on with the
mounting of the upper torsion bar and how it's adjusted, and in many
of these old cars it has worn differently from how the manuals
expected them to wear.
The bar runs through the top tube, of course. However, the two ends
are very different. One end has a flat on the side, right at the end
of the bar. There is a sort of conical dimple machined into this
flat. This end of the torsion bar is designed to be fixed in place
by a conical-tipped socket head (iirc) screw that's mounted in the
top of the trailing arm, vertically, in a threaded hole in the
trailing arm. It's supposed to seat down tightly in the matched
dimple machined in the torsion bar, and hold that end fixed. There
is a big lock nut around the socket head screw to keep it locked
down. If you like, the torsion bar and the trailing arm on this
fixed side become as one single unit, like a giant letter "L", sort
of.
The other end of the torsion bar is different. Its end has been
drilled and threaded along the torsion bar's axis. The trailing arm
for this side slides onto the bar, and a bolt mounts horizontally
through an unthreaded hole in this trailing arm, and then screws into
the torsion bar itself. This *single* screw is used to draw the
trailing arm and the torsion bar together, and pull *both* trailing
arms up tight to the front beam assembly.
Now! Manuals expect slight wear to develop due to the pivoting of
the trailing arms, and the way to get rid of such wear is to tighten
up (but don't overtighten!) this horizontal bolt. Trouble is, is
that for many Type IIIs, unexpected wear has occurred at the *other*
end of the torsion bar. Remember that little dimple in the flat of
that end of the torsion bar, where the set screw jams into the
conical dimple? Well, that dimple gets beaten up, and can wear into
a little trough. There is now slop where the set screw meets the
torsion bar, and it no longer secures the assembly sufficiently.
You could try an adjustment at the intended-to-be-adjusted end, and
this might help for a bit, but, as the car drives, it will beat up on
this set screw and its troughed dimple, which aren't really mated
properly, and it will quickly become loose again.
So, the trick is to take care of the set screw end. If the damage to
the torsion bar is not too bad, you may very well be able to get away
with loosening the other side to get some slack, tightening the set
screw so that it finds home jammed into the lowest part of the
troughed dimple, and then adjusting the meant-to-be-adjusted side
according to spec. This procedure worked well for my on my '71.
Hope this helps, and is at least a little bit clear!
-Greg
p.s.: as you can tell, I forget if the dimple is on the left or right
side. I think it's the left, and the adjuster is on the right... but
I forget. :)
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