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On 18 Aug 2006 at 19:57, DAVID WYATT wrote: > OK everyone I got the rear axel nuts off with a 1/2" drive 36mm axel nut > socket and a 5' cheater bar. Not as hard as it looks when there is enough > leverage. Congratulations, you were lucky to be able to make do with the smaller breaker bar, but sometimes luck is on your side. ;-) > The rear piston in the left side wheel cylinder was frozen in place. the > others I was able to remove with my fingers. Looks like some corrosion on > bottom inside of the cylinder center. The markings on the outside of the > Cylinders Ate 23. Ate is the maker's mark: Alfred Teves. 23 is the diameter of the bore, rounded to the nearest mm, so these must be 15/16" cylinders. The actual size will be molded into the inside face of the piston seals. With some effort, and a dental pick, I can usually pull out the seal under a stuck piston, then the piston can be driven out with a hammer and "suitable drift." Corrosion on the bottom center is par for the course. Hone the whole bore and clean up the parts and you're probably back in business, once you get the old bleeder out, of course. I recommend silicone brake fluid for these cars once you have everything back in good condition. That will keep things in good condition much longer. I have a writeup on this if you want it. -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~