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<x-flowed>HI Folks
Thanks for the suggestions. I found some adaptors at
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=ZVW20PLUG
Dave
On Sep 20, 2005, at 10:57 AM, type3-d-request@vwtype3.org wrote:
type3-d Digest Volume 2005 : Issue 630
Today's Topics:
RE: [T3] Seat belt attachment [ Matthew Jones <m@vw1600e.org.uk> ]
[T3] Slightly jerky running in 2nd a [ chris wright <Christopher.Wright@Su ]
Re: [T3] Slightly jerky running in 2 [ Toby Erkson <air_cooled_nut@pobox.c ]
Re: [T3] Any recommendations for an [ James Montebello <lapuwali@yahoo.co ]
Re: [T3] engines and mirrors [ Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
Re: [T3] Mystery material from Distr [ Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
[T3] if you had an air ride? [ fess <fess- vwtype3.org@fess.org> ]
RE: [T3] Seat belt attachment [ Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
From: Matthew Jones <m@vw1600e.org.uk> Date: September 20, 2005 2:07:15 AM PDT (CA) To: "type3@vwtype3.org" <type3@vwtype3.org> Subject: RE: [T3] Seat belt attachment
From: Jim Adney
On 15 Sep 2005 at 7:33, Dave Sanderson wrote:
Jim answered my query regarding the seat belt attachment
saying that
there were adaptor plugs. Thanks Jim. Does anyone have any
idea where
I might get these - or perhaps I need to make them. Thanks.
They were there on a web site that someone else brought up a few weeks ago, a place that sold seat belts. I believe that site was in the UK, but there must be places here that sell them also. I'd just look at some of the standard VW parts places and look under seat belts. Check out aircooled.net, for example.
That was me.
"Thread adaptor 22mm to 7/16" is that what you need ? If so, they're at the
bottom of this page:
http://www.vwheritage.com/publicRouter.cfm/loadPage/299/? cftoken=90620433&cfid=885371
HTH.
Incidentally, I'm part way through fitting their beetle rear intertia belts in
the rear of our '73 FB. It is not straighforward - when I have worked it all
out I'll post full details ...
-- Matt. UK. '73 1600e FB.
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From: chris wright <Christopher.Wright@Sun.COM> Date: September 20, 2005 3:29:05 AM PDT (CA) To: type3-d@vwtype3.org Subject: [T3] Slightly jerky running in 2nd and 3rd
Can anyone help with a little problem I have had for a while? Sorry for the length of the details below but it shows how much I've already tried!
Accelerating between 20-30 in second and 30-40 in third, the car is very slightly jerky or 'uneasy'. Nothing I can do seems to change it but it now goes away when really hot. Here's the background:
Car is a 64 T34 with the original 1500S stock carbs now on new 1600 single port heads. (replacement engine with 4K miles on it).
When the rebuilt engine was fitted, it came with a 009 dizzy. It seemed to run reasonably OK on this for the year's warranty but I wanted to go back to the original '64 only' vacuum and centrifugal advance dizzy, for both originality and smoother running. Original Dizzy was rebuilt with new vac unit and points. Car ran really badly, missing and jerking, it was terrible. Refitted the 009 and it was just the same!! I knew I'd scuffed the dizzy drive gear slightly by rotating the engine with the dizzy removed, and fearing it was this, I looked down at the teeth and the scuff was only on the tips, well above the point of mesh. I smoothed the edges of the teeth with a needle file in case it was slightly rough. (You can see it down the pump hole). Having spoken to some engine builders I was reassured that these gears are not that easily damaged and it was unlikely I'd done it any harm, I persevered with the original dizzy.
Because the problem didn't seem to occur until I messed with the distributor, I tried all sorts of points and timing combinations, new plugs, leads, condensor, rotor etc and finally had a diagnostic check done which said that there was nothing wrong and the points dwell, vac and centrifugal advance were all within spec. In the end, I found out that the timing needed to be set with 2 plugs disconnected to get down to under 700 rpm for the 10degrees advance setting.
(The advance starts at 700rpm on this model dizzy). This basic 10 degrees setting gave it 12.5degrees at 900rpm tickover and the missing was gone! (There is no pinking at this setting either, we run on 95 octane here! ). But whilst it was running OK again, this very slight uneasiness on acceleration remained. Another driver who tried it hardly felt it, so I know I'm being critical here, but when it gets really hot it disappears and it becomes such a smooth drive, I want it to be like that all the time.
Carbs have now had their spindles rebushed and rebuild kits fitted and I also fitted new balance pipe joiners to remove the air leaks and was very careful setting up the carb balance. I've just tried adding washers to the accelerator pump links to increase the pump emission but it doesn't seem to make much difference.
The uneasiness disappears after about 30 miles fast running and the car feels perfect. It's also OK when first on choke and fast tickover.
Anyone got any suggestions as to where to go from here? The Pilot jets are g45s and the mains are x125s I think. Venturis are 21.5mm I believe. It's still stock 6v and I've tried a different coil. The daig said the col was fine. Volts on the coil are 5.5 or so. I've tried a direct 6v wire from the battery and it didn't help.
I hope this forums experience can give me some new suggestions. Thanks, Chris
From: Toby Erkson <air_cooled_nut@pobox.com> Date: September 20, 2005 8:53:16 AM PDT (CA) To: Type 3 Mailing List <type3@vwtype3.org> Subject: Re: [T3] Slightly jerky running in 2nd and 3rd
FYI: Excellent post! Who cares how long it is. Detailed, well written...I wish more people wrote like this :-)
Toby Erkson -- http://www.icbm.org/
'72 VW Squareback Darksider, 5-speed, 2007cc, rag top
'95 VW Jetta 2.0L, CHE tranny w/Peloquin LSD, 270ΒΌ, TT Chip, SCCA Solo 2 EP#3
'73 Porsche 914 2.0L WIP; '81 Honda Gold Wing, 1100cc, stripped
Portland, Oregon
chris wright wrote:
Can anyone help with a little problem I have had for a while? Sorry for the length of the details below but it shows how much I've already tried! ...
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From: James Montebello <lapuwali@yahoo.com> Date: September 20, 2005 9:14:45 AM PDT (CA) To: type3@vwtype3.org Subject: Re: [T3] Any recommendations for an air compressor?
The "stand up" varieties take up a lot less floor space than the "lay down"
kind. Oilless compressors are commonplace and LOUD. If you intend to run
tools like cutoff wheels or grinders (tools that run continuously), you need
lots of airflow. Too little airflow (the CFM rating) means you'll be stopping
regularly to wait for the compressor to refill the tank. If you'll be running
things like impact wrenches, chisels, and the like (tools that only run in
short bursts), the CFM rating is much less important. The tank size is mostly
a function of how quiet you want things to be. Bigger tanks take up a lot more
space, but allow the compressor to run less often.
I've generally found that it's better to either get a fairly small compressor
for things like filling tires, blowing out things, the rare use of an impact
wrench, and go electric for things like grinders; OR go big on the compressor
so you can run the constant use tools w/o having to pause every 15 seconds.
The mid-size units are, IMHO, a waste of space.
I haven't priced these things recently, but I doubt you'll find a "big"
compressor for your budget, so I'd go for option A, and find the smallest unit
you can that still delivers reasonable airflow. Check the tools you intend to
use for their minimum airflow requirements.
--- Constantino Tobio <ctobio@gmail.com> wrote:
So, I've got a budget of $300 or so, and I'd like to buy a general light
to medium duty compressor. It's got to be able to drive some pneumatic
tools and do smaller paint jobs. It also needs to be 120V.
Does anyone have any recommendations, or have some advice on what I
should be looking for in a compressor? Money and voltage are the least
flexible parameters.
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From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> Date: September 20, 2005 8:19:36 AM PDT (CA) To: type3@vwtype3.org Subject: Re: [T3] engines and mirrors
On 19 Sep 2005 at 17:48, type3weezer@comcast.net wrote:
#1 My stock right side mirror is getting sloppy. I need to tighten the screw
on the bottom but it's stiff and I'm afraid of stripping it. any one know
how to loosen it with out trashing the screw.
I would completely remove the mirror from the car and carefully take all the
joints apart and grease them and the threads. Like Dave suggested, some Liquid
Wrench might be a good idea.
#2 This winters project will be a new engine block. I have a small crack in
a non vital area that keeps dripping. Should I go new or used? How is the T3
block different than the Type 1 block? (oil cooler/engine mount?) What is a
decent price for either one?
Where's your crack? Things like this are almost always a sign of significant
other problems, like main bearing studs whose nuts have come loose.
I have good used late style type 3 cases. These would be your best bet for an
upgrade. In most cases, I wouldn't try to fix a cracked case, except as a
temporary measure.
The correct universal case would be okay, but I hear that there are some
problems with some of the "super" cases that have been marketed lately. Perhaps
they've been corrected by now, but I've always started with a good used OG type
3 case and that automatically gives me everything I need. I send these to RIMCO
for align boring and case savers and they've always worked fine for me after
that.
Don't try to start from a type 1 case. There are only a handful of differences,
and they can all be corrected, but it will mean headaches for you in the long
run. The differences are in the oil filler pipe, dipstick tube, oil pressure
switch hole, oil cooler stud.
-- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA
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From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> Date: September 20, 2005 8:19:36 AM PDT (CA) To: type3@vwtype3.org Subject: Re: [T3] Mystery material from Distributor...
On 19 Sep 2005 at 22:09, J. Jonik wrote:
Suspecting that Vacuum Advance wasn't advancing smoothly and nicely enough, thought it was time to take apart and clean the distributor...T 3 71 Fuel Inj.
Out tumbled bits of a small broken "washer" or bushing...the kind made of some solid plastic insulating material. It was brittle.
What's the source of this thing? Anyone? I THINK, based on size (about 3/8s of an inch...diameter of a cigarette) it came from beneath one of the two pivot/spring posts in the trigger contacts.
It's a phenolic washer. Odd, I've never seen those break on the FI trigger
points.
Q: a) Is there a difference from side to side in trigger contacts? Or, ought both be identical?
They should all be the same, or rather mirror images of each other.
b) What might be effects of a missing insulating (?) bushing?
You don't want the contact to slip off the side of the fixed point, and you
don't want anything to short to the base.
c) Are trigger contacts Dead Meat w/out this insulating bushing? (Can't replace w/out grinding out a rivet and somehow replacing.)
Early FI trigger points did not have the little washer at the top of the pivot.
You can just grind the riveted over end of that pivot off and throw the washer
away. Replace the phenolic washer with a nylon or phenolic one that you can buy
anywhere.
d) Is there a way to electronically test trigger contacts to make sure they are properly insulated or whatnot?
Just use a standard VOM or DVM.
Effects were...uneven, hard to adjust,idling... tending to the fast....and not so smooth transmission when starting up and while slow driving after long trips. Something was wrong. Subtle. But what?
This doesn't sound like anything in particular that I recognize.
I HAVE had some trouble (2 such sets of trigger points over 35 years) with
trigger points that seem to have been poorly made. I'm setting up a test jig to
check these now. The main thing to check is to verify that each point is closed
for just under 180 deg of rotation (maybe about 160 deg each) and that the
spaces where neither is closed are about the same size. You can do this check
with a VOM and with the trigger points installed in your dist, which you're
holding in your hand.
Alternatively, you can send them to me to check, but that will take longer and
cost you postage. I wouldn't charge for this, but I plan to start checking it
on every dist I rebuild from now on.
-- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA
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From: fess <fess-vwtype3.org@fess.org> Date: September 20, 2005 10:47:20 AM PDT (CA) To: T3 List <type3@vwtype3.org> Subject: [T3] if you had an air ride?
Dear Obi-Wan, [ or any of you other all light siders out there. ]
I was just curious how strong the light side is in various listees, If you were given this car:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=184278
would remove the air ride system when restoring it?
--fess
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From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> Date: September 20, 2005 8:19:36 AM PDT (CA) To: type3@vwtype3.org Subject: RE: [T3] Seat belt attachment
On 20 Sep 2005 at 10:07, Matthew Jones wrote:
"Thread adaptor 22mm to 7/16" is that what you need ? If so, they're at the
bottom of this page:
http://www.vwheritage.com/publicRouter.cfm/loadPage/299/? cftoken=90620433&cfid=885371
That's the ad that I remembered. There must be a source in the US, however.
I remember seeing an ad in Hemmings Motor News for a company named Snake Oil
Products that just sold seat belts. When I googled on them I found one other
reference to them but no web presence directly to them. You might want to check
your local library for a copy of Hemmings and go from there.
-- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA
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