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[T3] Ign Timing questions
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Dan,
Having had a load of problems with timing recently, I'd say that if it's
now not pinking under any conditions, it's no longer too advanced.
Also, be careful with the advice you get, helpful folks advise from
within the experience of their own car and dizzy and you'd have to have
exactly the same setup for it to work for you.
As an example, On the 64 1500S distributor, (Vac and Centrifugal) the
advance curve starts very low at about 600-700rpm. Therefore to use the
middle mark when it's on tickover at 900rpm is wrong. The middle mark
is 10degrees advance and should be used to set it static or with the
engine running at 6-700rpm, which means removing 2 opposite side plug
leads to reduce speed while you set it. Once you put them back and are
ticking over at 900rpm again, you find the timing is now on the RH mark
which is 12.5degrees. Most people would advise that 12.5 degrees was
too advanced if they didn't know the circumstances under which it was
measured.
The one thing that everyone is agreed about is the 009. These are
notorious for variations in manufacture so you set them for max advance
of 30-32degrees, (usually at around 3500+ rpm). Ignore the urge to
check them at tickover or static because this may show some significant
variance from the 10 degrees you'd expect.
Someone sent me the exact measurement round the pulley for 30 degrees if
you don't have an advanceable timing light. I can dig this out if you
need it.
I'd be worried fitting the wrong vac advance dizzy to my car because
they should be matched to the vac take off from the carb and VW used
different takeoffs and vac units in different dizzys. ie the
aftermarket dizzy you were looking at might be right for a T1 with a
PICT 34 carb but you'd need to get it analysed to see if the advance was
right for your T3.
Rgds Chris
Why can't you be sure? Was it because any change was just too small to be sure
of, or because other things got changed at the same time? Were you doing the
switch to synthetic at this same time?
i changed the oil to synthetic, hoping to get the temps down. then,
after doing the drive once and noticing that temps were up rather than
down and not wanting to do any damage, i checked the timing to see if
that was the culprit. it was way off, like i said, so i changed it to
the middle timing mark. i know the old adage about only changing one
thing at a time, but i figured it wasn't worth overheating an engine
to get the diagnostic info.
From your note I wasn't able to discern what problem you hope to
address. Your timing was overadvanced, you changed it, the pinging went
i heard that just because you can't hear the pinging doesn't mean that
it's gone and you could still be doing damage to the engine and not
even hear it rattling. so, my questions are:
1. is the middle timing mark the correct one for my engine setup?
2. if i go by hearing a ping or not, am i retarded enough to be safe?
3. if i have to retard it any more and lose more power, should i just
go for the ACN SVDA dizzy because it will give me a more correct
timing curve and the best of both worlds, supposedly, with a good
advance curve.
thanks,
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------
Dan Hoopes
1967 Red Squareback "Stanley"
www.hoopes.net/dan/square/before.html
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