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A lot of folks recommend putting the fuel filter on the suction side of the fuel pump as opposed to the discharge side. The rationale being that it keeps gunk from getting in the fuel pump. I personally like this idea. Can anyone come up with a negative? One other thing that might be worth checking out is the condition of the fuel suction sock on the inside of the tank (and the inside of the tank in general). Was the gunk in your filter really black or red-brown? Red would tell you there's an awful lot of rust in there- something you might want to take a look at if you have water accumulation. On Mon, 14 Feb 2005 09:27:36 -0800, Toby Erkson <air_cooled_nut@pobox.com> wrote: > Okay, I spent yesterday working on making my new T3 daily-driverable. I > bought 6 feet of fuel injection 5/16" fuel line and it was the perfect > amount to replace all of the forward fuel lines except the one running > to the gas heater fuel pump. I'm glad I replaced it all, they were > cracking and swelling! Hal, I think you're crazy to replace all those > lines yearly <insert wacko smiley>. I also replaced all of the hose > fittings from Phillips head to 1/4" socket head. Those damn Phillips > headed ones strip too easily and make it hard to get a good purchase of > the tool to the fitting. All of the ones I replaced with my own supply > were stainless steel. > > I also have a fuel dampener. The right side of the beam has a plate > between the upper and lower torsion tubes. The plate has two holes in > it for fuel line to pass thru. The lower one did have a grommet but the > upper grommet looked like a comatose train wreck to I threw it away. I > decided to NOT install the dampener...less hose fittings and cutting to > deal with. I have not noticed one bit of difference in sound or > performance. > > The fuel filter was mostly black inside :-( I was surprised fuel was > able to get thru. I couldn't find a square filter (the FLAPS for VW > parts I use was closed) so I bought a large carburetor filter that is > clear (Purolator brand) and that worked fine. Of course I inspected > everything running to make sure there were no leaks. I was very happy > with my work done in that area except for the gasoline from my finger > tips to my elbows -- I normally work with Nitrile gloves so I really > wasn't exposed to much nasty stuff. > > Russ, I would like to thank you for pointing out the fused kick-down > wire to me! I removed the wire from the coil and tucked it aside. WOW, > what a difference in shifting! That cured the bad shifting, > particularly the shift hunting it did about 40mph (shift up, shift down, > shift up, shift down, etc.). I also drained about 1/2 a quart of excess > ATF fluid just to get the fluid level to the top mark of the dipstick > :-( I'm sure that will help with various shifting duties as the Bentley > states over/under filling as a cause of many symptoms. The DDB has > kick-down switches so I'll definitely be replacing mine. > > I set the point gap as it was soooooo small I'm honestly surprised that > the car even ran. I then adjusted the timing and idle bypass by ear. > Boy did THAT make a difference in driving. I was actually able to > accelerate faster than a slug going uphill in mud. I drove her to the > DDB shop and hooked up the timing light, pulled out my Bentley and timed > her according to '72 procedures. She now runs GREAT and has > acceleration, even uphill. Yee-haw! > > The last thing I did was the stock heating system. The passenger side > still has the original metal tubing and insulator wrap so I simply oiled > the hose clamp screws and made sure everything was complete and snug. > It is. On the driver side I removed the tore aluminum foil tubing and > replaced it with one of my baby's original metal tubes. I then put a > large plastic tube around it with fiberglass insulation within. > > The heat exchangers have had the repair tube made and, very > unfortunately, the muffler is WELDED to the repair tube and heat > exchanger. My fix for this will likely be cutting the repair tube and > welding in flanges on the muffler and repair tube (the way I think it > should've been done in the first place IMO). > > I haven't gotten to hook up my VW 1218 fuel injection tester nor have I > had time to properly fix the fuel pump to relay issue. I also need > adjust the valves. But they will get done :-) I think that's it for now... > > -- > > Toby Erkson -- air_cooled_nut@pobox.com > Two '72 VW Squarebacks, '95 VW Jetta ~ WIP, '81 Gold Wing, '73 Porsche 914 > http://www.icbm.org/ > Portland, Oregon > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > >