[T3] My Automatic Square update (long)

[Toby Erkson <air_cooled_nut@pobox.com>]

<x-flowed>Okay, I spent yesterday working on making my new T3 daily-driverable.  I 
bought 6 feet of fuel injection 5/16" fuel line and it was the perfect 
amount to replace all of the forward fuel lines except the one running 
to the gas heater fuel pump.  I'm glad I replaced it all, they were 
cracking and swelling!  Hal, I think you're crazy to replace all those 
lines yearly <insert wacko smiley>.  I also replaced all of the hose 
fittings from Phillips head to 1/4" socket head.  Those damn Phillips 
headed ones strip too easily and make it hard to get a good purchase of 
the tool to the fitting.  All of the ones I replaced with my own supply 
were stainless steel.

I also have a fuel dampener.  The right side of the beam has a plate 
between the upper and lower torsion tubes.  The plate has two holes in 
it for fuel line to pass thru.  The lower one did have a grommet but the 
upper grommet looked like a comatose train wreck to I threw it away.  I 
decided to NOT install the dampener...less hose fittings and cutting to 
deal with.  I have not noticed one bit of difference in sound or 
performance.

The fuel filter was mostly black inside :-(  I was surprised fuel was 
able to get thru.  I couldn't find a square filter (the FLAPS for VW 
parts I use was closed) so I bought a large carburetor filter that is 
clear (Purolator brand) and that worked fine.  Of course I inspected 
everything running to make sure there were no leaks.  I was very happy 
with my work done in that area except for the gasoline from my finger 
tips to my elbows -- I normally work with Nitrile gloves so I really 
wasn't exposed to much nasty stuff.

Russ, I would like to thank you for pointing out the fused kick-down 
wire to me!  I removed the wire from the coil and tucked it aside.  WOW, 
what a difference in shifting!  That cured the bad shifting, 
particularly the shift hunting it did about 40mph (shift up, shift down, 
shift up, shift down, etc.).  I also drained about 1/2 a quart of excess 
ATF fluid just to get the fluid level to the top mark of the dipstick 
:-(  I'm sure that will help with various shifting duties as the Bentley 
states over/under filling as a cause of many symptoms.  The DDB has 
kick-down switches so I'll definitely be replacing mine.

I set the point gap as it was soooooo small I'm honestly surprised that 
the car even ran.  I then adjusted the timing and idle bypass by ear. 
Boy did THAT make a difference in driving.  I was actually able to 
accelerate faster than a slug going uphill in mud.  I drove her to the 
DDB shop and hooked up the timing light, pulled out my Bentley and timed 
her according to '72 procedures.  She now runs GREAT and has 
acceleration, even uphill.  Yee-haw!

The last thing I did was the stock heating system.  The passenger side 
still has the original metal tubing and insulator wrap so I simply oiled 
the hose clamp screws and made sure everything was complete and snug.  
It is.  On the driver side I removed the tore aluminum foil tubing and 
replaced it with one of my baby's original metal tubes.  I then put a 
large plastic tube around it with fiberglass insulation within.

The heat exchangers have had the repair tube made and, very 
unfortunately, the muffler is WELDED to the repair tube and heat 
exchanger.  My fix for this will likely be cutting the repair tube and 
welding in flanges on the muffler and repair tube (the way I think it 
should've been done in the first place IMO).

I haven't gotten to hook up my VW 1218 fuel injection tester nor have I 
had time to properly fix the fuel pump to relay issue.  I also need 
adjust the valves.  But they will get done :-)  I think that's it for now...

--

   Toby Erkson  --  air_cooled_nut@pobox.com
   Two '72 VW Squarebacks, '95 VW Jetta ~ WIP, '81 Gold Wing, '73 Porsche 914
   http://www.icbm.org/
   Portland, Oregon

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