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On 8 Feb 2005 at 10:16, Daniel Baum wrote: > Thanks everyone. After having another look, here's the gameplan: > > - I will remove the muffler. The advantages of it not being there far > outweigh the half hour it will take me to get it off. I am not being paid a > flat rate fee for doing this after all. Sounds reasonable to me. We'd probably both do it differently if the muffler was old and everything rusted together. > - Then I should be able to remove the pulley housing (question: is this > right?) Right. > - After the pulley housing is off I should be able to get my electric impact > wrench onto the pulley bolt. According to Russ this should be able to crack > the bolt open without jamming the torque converter. I would rather do this > the least possible to avoid any possibility of breaking something. You'll still need to lock up the engine when you torque that bolt back in. It needs 92 ft-lbs. Don't try to do this part with the inpact wrench. If you want to use the rope-in-the-combustion-chamber trick, do it in #2 because that crank throw is closest to the rear of the engine. > - Take off fan housing and fan and find out what's rattling. Do whatever > needs to be done to fix it. You'll probably need a couple of M8 x 1.25 bolts and a "steering wheel puller" to get the fan off. DON'T resort to prying it, but it may just wiggle off. Get an M6 x 1.0 tap and grind off the tip so it will tap to the bottom of a blind hole, then tap those bolt holes all the way to the bottom. Use longer bolts and Loctite. > - Put everything back together putting the muffler back on last, after the > new rubber intake housing which I now need. > > Does this sound reasonable? Yep! -- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~