Re: [T3] Torque converter bolts

["Daniel Baum" <daniel@type34.info>]

<x-flowed>> Interesting. It looks like different bolts were used in different years.
> Up thru '70 they used a DIN 933 bolt M8 x12, with an M8 wave washer.
>
> Starting in '71, they used a special bolt, which I'll bet has a locking 
> hex
> washer head and is used without a separate washer. It is # 003 323 699, It
> might be worthwhile seeing if this is still a good part # at your dealer.

I went to the VW parts store today. I had a print out of one of Jim's 
previous messages with me, and the parts guy actually recognised the drive 
plate just by its part number. I guess that's what happens after working 
with this stuff for a few years.

The bolts, which are now 003 323 699A, are still available from VW. They 
didn't have them in stock, but I was told they could order them from 
Germany. This sounded both time consuming and expensive, so I went over the 
road and bought six M8x12mm bolts (grade 8.8) with lock washers for the 
equivalent of $1.10. That's three for the drive plate and three spares.


> The one broken bolt is certainly puzzling. I'd try fitting the plate to 
> the TC
> before you put things together just so you know if there's a problem with 
> the
> fit somewhere.

I'll do that. It looks like it may have broken off when someone tried to 
undo it. Maybe they forced the wrong kind of bolt in there. In any case, I 
am now going to be using a different torque converter.

> > BTW - the old seal was obviously very worn - the sealing lip was flat. It
> > looks like this was our culprit.
>
> The engine seal, or the TC seal, or both?

This was the TC seal. the engine seal actually looked OK - a bit worn of 
course, but it wasn't leaking and I would not have changed it if I hadn't 
had the engine out anyway.


> All oil seals wear a flat on them;
> it's only when they wear thru to the garter spring inside that they are 
> truly
> finished. Of course you want to replace them before that happens, because 
> the
> garter spring will damage the metal sealing surface, as on your drive 
> plate.

The TC oil seal was very flat. I can only think of two possibilities - 
either it was still able to seal enough to keep in cold, viscous oil but not 
hot oil after a long drive, or else the actual torque converter itself had a 
crack that opened up when it got really hot. In either case my current work 
will fix it. Is there any other possibility?


Daniel 

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