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Hey Steve, If he has a mid engine dune buggy, which is pretty common these days, then the type 3 cooling will work well, the air intake will be pointing forward. If he's truly going to run on the sand, then dual port heads and dual carbs will be much better, he should probly even go for a hotter cam. Brad, The 1776 works well, but you might consider (for about the same cost) going for the 1835 (stock crank with 92's) and a cam of 288 or so. In the sand you need all the power you can get, if you wanna make it up those razorbacks. The dual Kadrons usually work well. If you built your motor well, you could then later go to Webers or Dellortos if you can find them and pick up another 25-50 hp and 1500-2000 rpm. Be sure to sand seal the pulley end of the engine and meticulously seal everything up well. Steve is right, if you are rear engined, you'd be much better off converting your setup to an upright shroud, from a type 1. Hotted up VW engines do not last near as long, but any dune buggy will never see the hours of operation of a street car. Most buggies run 2-3 years between rebuilds and that only translates into 100-200 hours of operation at most, which is equivalent to 5-10,000 miles. Usually the sand gets the motor long before it would normally wear out. just my 2 cents. Jim Showker ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Ayres" <comwest@att.net> To: <type3@vwtype3.org> Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2005 10:12 PM Subject: Re: [T3] engine rebuild questions > BradM=> Pertronix electronic ignition ... I was told the T3 distributor > => is different ... > > Yes, the carb-engine Type 3 distributors are lower-profile than the Type > 1s you're probably used to, but it's unlikely that you have this > problem. To determine which distributor you have, check the part number > on the side of the distributor case. > > => I am going to likely replace the carbs. Mine need rebuilt, and I would > => need new intakes as well > > The stock carbs and single-port heads will probably give you more > responsiveness and torque offroad. > But I know, big engine = good. <sigh> > > => Can I sell my old ones very easily? > > Most likely you're already getting offers from other listmembers. > > => dual Kadrons. Any concerns? > > Overfueling. But you really needn't worry much about that, because your > compromised cooling system will probably kill the motor before you > notice the loss of power from cylinder scoring. > > Seriously, you're taking on a substantial project just in getting the > linkages right and the carbs tuned, leave alone the rest. I hope you're > prepared for that. Most of these conversions are failures due to lack of > attention to detail. Add the Type 1 body and you're in rough territory > -- keeping a Type 3 cool in a buggy is *really* challenging. > > Steven Ayres, Prescott AZ > '66 KG1600 > > > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >