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VW instruction was to use graphite lubricant when assembling. There's a fighting chance that would do some good if you had to remove the muffler before it was rusted through, but I don't imagine many mechanics bothered with that. If you end up having to cut off the muffler, the 46mm nut is the same as the Type 2 rear hub nut - find you local friendly Bus Pilot. (Sorry, in poor taste). It's rare for the lower heat exchanger pipes to slide out again, but maybe the same stuff would make that possible too. Not much point worrying about the uppers loosening if the lowers are rusted solid together. As Russ says, it's purpose is for tightening on assembly. I'm not sure about the hammer bit though, unless you can't get the crush washer (can anyone?). Dave. UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/ ------ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russ Wolfe" <russw@classicvw.org> To: "Type3" <type3@vwtype3.org> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2004 6:04 PM Subject: Re: [T3] muffler wrench > On Wed, 2004-11-10 at 11:01, variant_1600-vwtype3@yahoo.com wrote: > > $30, eh? How well does it work? If you use some Kroil > > oil on them, do they come off without ruining > > anything? I still haven't fixed my heater box pipes as > > I figured I'll have to pull the engine. If this tool > > worked, obviously I wouldn't have to do that. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~