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On 18 May 2004 at 23:17, Daniel Baum wrote: > > Don't forget to test it before putting every little screw and washer back > > on, > > Yes. This still means putting the carb and manifold on temporarily and > starting the engine without the tin, I suppose, or can it be tested some > other way? You might just be able to crank it with the starter. It might even run on 2 cylinders for long enough to do this test. Make sure there's nothing that can fall in, or get sucked in, the open intake ports. > >Don't forget to re-install a new foam piece on the oil cooler, > > The foam was, of course, missing. Is there anything special about it? What > kind of foam is it? While on the subject, the rubber under my generator > clamp is getting very ratty. Can I use any kind rubber ribbon to replace it, > or it is some kind of special rubber? I use 1/2" polyurethane foam. I tested the stuff I use at high temp and for oil resistance. It has held up for more than 10 years on engines that I've used it on. I think it is better than the original. > > and don't forget to > > Oh yeah also make sure you have the right oil cooler/engine combination as > > well as the seals to go with them. > > Yes. I have a late case and late cooler. My engine is not original. Okay, then you need the late, thinner seal with 10mm openings on BOTH sides. No spacer washers get used with this combination. > One more thing while I have things apart. Is there really supposed to be a > metal pipe through the front tin that the rubber fuel hose attaches to on > either side? I just have a hole that I put the hose though. What's supposed > to be there? I think it's generally just the hose and a rubber grommet. Bob Hoover recommends a bulkhead fitting, like you're describing, to keep the thin bulkhead from sawing thru the hose. -- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org