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> 3 Notches in front will bring you into about -2 degrees of Caster... this is > opposite the +4 you want, so the car will wander severly in high winds and > bump steer on uneven pavement. If its smooth and Calm you wont notice this > as much. Maybe in books and on paper, but I didn't have any problems with it in real life at obviously high rates of speed. > I always wonder how people say this 2 or 3 notches in the Front... 1 Notch = > ~12 degrees which puts you bar right next to the bump stop, 2 and you may > just be able to get it on without removing the suspension stops. > 2 notches down is 0 to -1 degress of caster... unstable. I commonly went 2 or 3 notches with no problems. For 3 I would remove the original bump stop and bump stop mount (the little nub and washer/spacer looking thing) completely. I would then add a small poly bump stop onto the horn that held the original bump stop. Could your 12 degree figure be off? (just asking, I have no idea.) > Again... 36 degrees change in bar and how in the world do you even get it > in?? It would be resting firmly on the lower stop even if you could. Try it and see. It is done all the time. I don't recall it being difficult at all. Again, maybe your 12 degree figure is off. > Because the shock is absorbed slowly if the torsion bar is allowed to absorb > it as it was designed. If you slam the arm into the bump stop it slams the > arm against the needle bearing and bushing, and the needles actually stamp > themselves into the race on the arm, causing quick wear from then on. Every > front end on every lowered car Ive seen has been shot. That's because they didn't allow for adequate suspension travel with decent shocks. Other wise known as a "hack job". > OK, youve really got to help me here, there are only 2 ways to lower, rotate > the lower torsion bars or dropped spindles and since there are so few > dropped spindles out there I think your referring to the bars. > your variable is How much do you lower? Please give me a better > understanding of what you mean about a properly adjusted and set up lowering > job. I simply mean making sure it has enough suspension travel to allow the shocks to absorb the bump and return. On our track car we re-located the shock mounts to provide plenty of travel for the suspension to work. > Again, a smooth highway on a clam day and your fine. I drove the Purple > Passion and was very happy with how smooth it was, till I hit a seam in the > pavement on the off ramp. Maybe Im just sensitized to poor highways with > all the potholes and heaving we have here in the Northeast in the winter, > our highways are much worse than in the West. Possibly, but I drove a lowered T3 for 4-5 years and I'm sure I came across a bumpy and/or windy road in that amount of time. > Ill have a spare Front beam with me in Hershey this summer, I invite all to > add thier ideas to the front end presentation, and I will in fact show you > how to lower... so Im always interested to learn how > others are getting by with what seems physical limitations to me. Sorry, I won't be making it to Hershey. This is strange, you say you can't see how we lower a car 3 measily notches and you are going to "show us how to lower"? I've gone as much as 6 notches and still managed to get the suspension back together. I don't recommend trying this as it was a trailered only show car, I also had to replace the upper ball-joints when I raised it to 3f/2r because they were worn out from being stretched so badly. It had at most 300 miles on it. I drove it to the last show I took it to still at 6/3. It was a 1.5 hour trip one way. I've driven with good results on 3+ notches in front with minor modifications. -Patrick D. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org