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On 28 Jun 2004 at 13:07, Emhildebrandt@aol.com wrote: > What I've got is a '71 FI/MT Squareback w/an engine transplant from a > '73 (dealer rebuilt 20k & 20+ yrs.ago). It ran like a top in its' OG > body & the only changes I made were adding the throttle valve switch & > pressure sensor from the '71. It still isn't running though... It turns > over fine, both relays click & the pump is pumpin, plenty o' spark, > too. (I just dumped my cruddy points & condenser for a Pertronix kit) I > own a Bosch EFAW 193 tester & have gone through all the stages with > it...now turn your Bentleys to section 22 & follow along. If you lack > a Bentley manual, you will not know what I'm talking about...sorry. '71 brain, too? These tests are all done with the brain removed. Is that what you've done? ALL of the EFI tests can be done with a meter thru the brain plug. Just unplug the brain and look at the FI parts via the cable that connects to each of them. Note that the wire numbers are the order that they appear in the brain connector. The details are on page 18 for the '71 efi. > Test Stages 1-4 are w/in spec. > 5. shows a reading of 5 on ohm scale of meter (spec is infinite) Not > sure what this means. This means that theres a high resistance short between either the PS primary or secondary windings and ground. Pull the wire off the PS and see if the resistance is still there. If it is then the short is in the wiring harness. You can do this test with your Ohmmeter, too. Just look at the pin numbers on the wiring diagram on page 18. > 6-7-8-9 are w/in spec > 10-11. Since this tester is meant for the earlier FI cars & I lack the > adaptor, at this stage the meter reads 10 ohms, even w/the throttle > position switch unplugged...how does one check the throttle pos. > switch w/a VOM, etc? Is there any way to mod my unit w/o the official > adapter? Look at page 18 again and note that you were looking at wires 17 & 20. Check them with your meter. If they still show resistance with the TPS unplugged then you have a wiring harness problem. > 12-13 w/in spec. > 14. pushing the buttons, I get NOTHING for any of the 4 injectors, > though w/the ignition swithced on, I get a click when > plugging/unplugging any of them. So is my tester broken at this > particular stage? I will check each valve w/my VOM as soon as I get > new leads for it, though it does seem highly unlikely that all 4 > valves 'died in their sleep'. Gotta wonder about your tester. You have the switch set on Valves, don't you? The clicks mean that the injectors are being opened, so either you're doing something wrong, or your tester is bad. I think it would be hard for the tester to be bad in this way, but you might want to take it apart and just quickly check inside for any obvious damage. -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org