[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]
That sounds about right. You need the rear fenders off to get at the side attachment welds. Of course that may show up some other rust, but that depends on the car's geographical history. Dave. UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/ ------ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mysterious J" <mysteriousj@snet.net> To: "Type 3 Mailing List" <type3@vwtype3.org> Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 12:00 AM Subject: [T3] Rear apron replacement > I'm getting ready to bring our '68 Fastback to the bodyshop (the scheduled > drop off date is November 1st) and I'm trying to get as much of the "rough > work" done as possible. My cousin is a really good welder with good > equipment and facilities (I had him TIG weld some holes in the car, and > after finishing you can't tell where the work was done.) I'm thinking about > working with him to replace the rear apron, which has some accident and > aborted repair attempt damage. I have an NOS panel to install. His > specialty is replacing body panels and floor panels on rusted and accident > damaged cars, and his work is excellent. > > My question is, how is the apron attached to the body of the car? From what > I can tell, its attached by spot welds along the top edge (where the latch > mechanism is), along the sides (where the beading goes) and I think by spot > welds across the middle. Am I missing any spots? How long should it take > for a well-equipped shop to do this work? I'm backward organizing from the > November 1st drop off date, trying to get everything done between now and > then. > > Thanks, > Jim Altemus > '68 Fastback > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > > >