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On 4 Sep 2003 at 10:31, jason.smith@sarcom.com wrote: > The front pads and all the hoses were replaced, but the shoes and drums on > the rears have not. What I need is some experienced guidance on parts and > installation. I am a little apprehensive about working on brakes, you know > the whole being able to stop thing ;) I doubt you'll have trouble with the mechanical disassembly, except for getting the drums off. To get the drums off, put the rear end of the car securely up on jackstands. Remove ONE wheel and the 2 small bolts that secure the drum to the hub. Do not undo the center nut. You may have to use a hammer and cold chisel at an angle to loosen the 2 small bolts. Get in the car and start the engine. Put it in gear with all the brakes off and speed up the engine. Stomp on the brakes. This will break the drum loose from the hub. Shut down the engine. Put that wheel BACK ON and remove the other wheel and the other 2 small bolts.. Repeat the break loose process. Remove the first wheel and both drums. You're ready to go. Remove the various springs that attach the shoes and remove and inspect the shoes. Rear shoes on our cars last a LONG time, so they often don't need to be replaced. I find that the rear wheel cylinders get sticky and accumulate rust in the bores, so if you just have regular brake fluid in there you might want to take them apart and hone them. This will maximize their lifetime. All my type 3s still have OE wheel cylinders with original rubber, and they are all just fine. If your bleed valves aren't rusted tight, then the cylinders can be easily honed in place on the car and this is what I'd recommend. I recently wrote up a description of how to do this and I will forward you a copy tonight. I sent Greg a copy also, but I don't see it posted on vwtype3.org yet. (hint, hint...) > The car sat for a long time so I want to just replace the parts. I know the > adjusting stars are rusted in place, even after trying to use PB Blaster etc. > to loosen them. Once you get the drums off you can get much more leverage on the star wheels with a pair of Channellocks. Be careful not to destroy the detent spring that lays on the underside (feel it there with your fingers.) You can buy new star wheels and adjusters, but I just free up the old ones and lube them with anti seize and they're fine. Don't put on excessive lube as you don't want it to drip on the friction surfaces. Note that the slots in the adjusters MUST face somewhat upwards. Don't use any kind of petroleum lubricant on ANYTHING in the hydraulic parts of the brakes. > What all do I need to replace on this system? Adjusting stars, springs, shoes > etc.? Just replace what is worn out or broken. > Any things I should look out for? > > Is there any way to tell if the drums are still good? There is a wear limit in the Bentley, but I've never replaced a drum. DON'T get them turned; that just thins them out so that there is less metal there. If they are grooved it will take awhile for new shoes to wear to fit them, but they will work as well as flat drums once this happens. In the meantime, you probably won't notice the difference, but you may have to re-adjust them in a week or so after they wear together. -- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org