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----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> > Those are just mold numbers, they mean nothing. So how do you tell if they are in fact the right caliper? They look exactly the same as the ones I took off so I guess they are. > It means that this caliper was made to expect a thicker rotor. Since it was a > Golf caliper we don't know what the piston diameter is either. In the long run, > I don't see this as a very promising approach. Your brake balance has probably > changed and eventually, when the pads wear down the pistons will come too far > out of the bores and either lose all the fluid, or crack the caliper. Neither > thought is very reassuring, but you have a lot of time before that will happen. No Jim, its Golf pads I'm using. As far I can tell these are NOS ate Type3 calipers > The obvious extra gap was made up the first time you pushed on the pedal. After > that the pads just retracted a few thousandths. New (or rebuilt)calipers, even > the exact correct ones, always feel different. The fact that they are not > binding means that they will retract farther, so they require more pedal travel > to apply. You are correct about the pads bedding in; this will change a bit as > they conform to the rotors. Actually they feel better allready after the drive home from work last night. I was just wondering if its normal for the extra 3-4mm gap on each side- I don't think that my rotors could have been that much thicker when new. It doesn't look like the piston dust seal would stretch far enough to use up much of the pad. > > The Golf calipers almost certainly do not have the compensation pins. I wasn't sure if the late Type 3 ones did either- I'm sure I've heard it said that when they got the Type4 calipers that they lost the compensation pin? Thanks, Mark ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org