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Full flowing oil cooling/filtering has been recommended for years by racers and folks that just wish to make their cars to last like 'regular' water cooled cars. What this encompasses is some case modefications tapping and blocking of oil galleries. Oil pressure will go out of the pump then thru the new oil cooler and filter then back into the case and flow thru the oringinal oil cooler when hot and then releived by the pressure releif when pressure goes too high. This technique is used to add cooling and/or oil filter sucessfully into the oil stream. Full flowing will require a new type of pump cover that may not fit below the fan shroud, bigger pumps also may not fit with the new cover. I have heard that Berg has a cover for the TYPE 3 that helps with this limitation. If you have a center monted engine bracket with a 68 or newer car, you may have to modify it but cutting some metal. Some folks have very effective and creative plumbing. Many folks add oil temp gauges to their fullflow setup, which gives them an idea how hot the case is , this usually does not give what is happening in the the head since not much oil flows through there. The addition of the oil temp gauge is recommended by many folks. I did not do my oil cooling and filtering this way , I used a method that many folks recommended against. I removed the old oil cooler (which has a very effective design by the way ), blocked it's air outlet, installed a very strong oil cooler releif spring , oil adapter on the case , two 73 plate coolers with a filter adapter in series, big oil pump. All of this is installed above my autotranny and I have been very satisfied with this setup so far, the coolers are fan cooled so before I start my car the ignition position turns my fans on . I did not put a thermostat in my system, just lazy, if it works leave it alone , I live in a warm climate (San Diego) , if I would have live in a cold climate, I would have placed fan thermostats and oil bypass thermostats for freezing whether. Why did I do mine this way ? one was lazyness and the other was for some practicality. As you have read in my last long response, I have gone through a truckload of heads. Earlier, when I first bought my car, this replaced a high performance car with an 8 liter engine, I still had the bad habit of driving very hard on the highway and offroad (still do ), on my Squareback I cracked my first head and and boiled my oil for the first time . This was in the summer of 1999 when I bought the car off a surfer dude . The head (cyl #3 and #4) did not last one month under my reign of terror , when checking oil black smoke came out of the oil filler and oil boiling could be heard, true story , my mom was scared and moved away from the car. (car ran out of power up a hill on the way to work so I had to move to the side of the highway). After this, I rebuilt my case(balanced all the guts of this too) and bought brand spanking new Brazilian heads. Problem not corrected but I started analyzing and studying the cooling aspect. Air flow to the oil cooler was very cool around 70 f in the summer but the outlet oil cooler air was too hot to touch (yes I was under the car at fast idle with my hand up there). Lots of air was blasting out of the oil air outlet instead of going thru the head , especially thru the #3 cumbustion chamber. I made a crude airflow meter using a toy motor with a propeller and a voltmeter and found that the #3 and #4 head airflow was much less than the #1 and #2 head airflow, my heads always got cracked around the sparkplug on the #3 cumbustion chamber, other folks informed that when their type 3 heads cracked it was at this cumbustion chamber. So I yanked the oil cooler out, plugged the air flow area and made sealing tin for the oil adapeter and remotely installed two big plate coolers with fans. Plate coolers a very efficient but not as efficient as the original german ones. If you want aftermarket efficient coolers with the same German design with some improvements, get them from Earl's (look up site), very expensive though. My oil flows thru my big pump to my oil adapter that will always flow because of the heavy relief spring, then to my oil filter then to the 140+ plate oil cooler then to my engine. Oil always just warm to the touch of the dipstick , never hot. I am not recommending with the way I have done my cooling but what I am saying is that it was very effective for me . I would recommend a thermostat of some kind to regulate oil temps. Full flowing was not for me since I wanted to eliminate air loss and liked big oil pumps. You can say I was paranoid that my little engine would last. I just speak from very big engine experience (7 + liter American engines), of that time. LEON MARTINEZ SAN DIEGO AND TIJUANA 69 SQUARE 73 FASTY 67 FASTY ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org