Re: [T3] Adjusting front stabilizer bar

[Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>]

On 9 Mar 2003 at 22:41, Mark Seaton wrote:

> I did this, and it was easy! just like most things on these great cars. The
> bar came out with gentle tapping. I pulled it  right out and it looked
> amazingly good- in fact it could have been new! There was no wear on the
> lobed ends, and the lock screw dimple in the L side was pefectly formed.

Good, then you torqued the grub screw to spec when you put it back again, 
right?

> I wonder why the manuals go into that rotating the arms to vertical to
> remove the bar? Is this necessary for removing the arms?- are they keyed
> into the crossmember in case the stabilizer bar breaks?

Yes, I believe so.

> I still had the same adjustment trouble though. I would tighten the adjuster
> bolt hard hand tight, then back it off. It would unscrew a few turns under
> tension- like there was something springy in there taking up the slack. I
> looked but it didn't seem that the rubber sealing rings had been displaced
> into the joint. Is this a normal thing? I guess I settled on about mid way
> between loose and really tight- should that be OK?

I think the sealing rings will kind of wedge themselves in there and put the 
arms out if you give them the chance. I THINK I remember something about 
slipping those rings out of the way while you make this adjustment. You don't 
want them confusing the issue.

> Maybe soon I'll take the whole thing apart for inspection. I didn't
> want to disturb the ball joints as they're OK and I didn't want to mess
> with the steering setup, but it looks easy enough and if I undo the big
> nuts on them, everything should be the same when I put it back. 

It's really a fair amount of work, so I really don't recommend it. Plus there 
is always the chance of breaking something else that would otherwise have 
worked fine for another 100k miles.

-- 
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Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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