[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]
On 28 Jun 2003 at 17:54, AdamVW wrote: > Anyway, a problem has come up that I think requires more immediate > attention. There is virtually no pressure in my brake system. Just > pressing the brakes causes them to not quite go to the floor, but hit what I > think is the end of their travel. Pressing them in this way does slow the car > down a bit (with some significant pushing of the pedal), maybe slowing to a > complete stop from 20mph in 10-15 seconds. Pumping them improves this a bit, I > can feel slight pressure, but it still feels more like a suggestion than a > command. I've bled the brakes twice already, once with a helper and once > without. The system does not seem to be losing fluid, and I don't see any leaks > anywhere. When you bleed, do you get fluid out easily? If so, then I think this part is done. More bleeding won't help. > 2. Drain and replace fluid. Do step 1 again. Replacing old DoT 3 or 4 fluid is always a good thing, but you've probably already done this enough. > 3. Replace rubber hoses that go from the metal lines to the actual brakes > (can this cause my problem?). Not likely the problem for THESE symptoms. > 4. Replace Master Cylinder. Certainly possible, but unlikely with a tandem MC. > Any advice you all have is appreciated. > 1970 Squareback Make sure rear brake shoes are adjusted. Make sure front calipers have their bleed valves installed at the TOPS of the calipers. If they are at the bottom, they are installed on the wrong side of the car and won't ever bleed right. > ps- If I have time tonight I might try to tighten up my steering wheel (a > job that doesn't take a second person). Am I correct in assuming that the > housing that holds the ignition switch and the turn signal lever (in front > of the steering wheel) should be able to travel the full length of the 2 > slots on the underside? There are 2 bolts there (hex heads on mine) which I > think are to adjust how far out the steering wheel protrudes. The axial position of the wheel is not adjustable; it is fixed by the length of the central steering shaft. You can only adjust the position of the column, which should be done to set the gap between the top of the column and the underside of the wheel to about 2-3mm. If your wheel/column tends to loosen up, just make sure the adjustment above is right and then tighten the two bolts you mention above as well as the 2 at the bracket at the bottom of the column. Note also that there is an eccentric bushing in that bottom bracket which allows you to adjust the position of the shaft where it passes thru the firewall. You may have to turn this bushing so that the shaft does not hit anything as it passes thru. If it hits, it will push itself around and loosen up. Unless you've just overlooked this bracket and its fixing bolts, this is probably your problem. Adjusting this bushing is best done with the front end jacked up so you can hear if anything is touching. There is a flexible bellows you can pull back to see a bit, and it may also be helpful to watch from below as a double check. None of this stuff should ever have to be adjusted after the car leaves the factory, but an accident can change the position of things and make it necessary to readjust. Or things can just come loose and need to be retightened. If it's been in a bad accident, it may not be possible to get everything right again. You should check the flex coupling at the bottom of the steering shaft and make sure that it is not being overstressed. This is NOT something that you want to have fail on you while driving. -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org