RE: [T3] Engine started! As did new problems...

[Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>]

On 16 Jun 2003 at 7:05, Chris J Valade wrote:

>         I ran into a few problems removing the pulley housing.  The first
> is that whoever had installed it used screws instead of bolts, so I had a
> hell of a time removing them in the tight spaces (I had to remove three
> with a flathead bit and a vice grip), so I need to know what sort of
> bolts I need to get to replace those with so that it is easier to put
> back and easier to get out if I ever have to again.  

They are M6 x 1 bolts, 10mm hex head, about 12mm long.

> The second is that it turns out the air bellows weren't completely
> secured to the housing, and so that is another part I have to
> straighten out on the housing to get it on, but after that do I need a
> hose clamp, or something else to keep it sealed?  The bellows also have
> two small cuts/holes, should I replace it or get something to seal the
> cuts/holes?  And what would I use to seal it? 

There was a kind of band clamp there originally, but these are commonly left 
off. They usually connect up just fine and stay in place without the band. I 
have some if you want one, but, myself, I only put the rear one in place. Small 
cuts/tears can be mended with super glue, medium ones with duct tape, 
sometimes. If they get too big the bellows should be replaced. I have these, 
too. It is VERY important that ONLY cool air be sucked in to cool the engine.

> The third is that the muffler is in the way and is
> preventing the housing from clearing the bottom of the crankshaft, so now
> I have to remove the muffler...and replace it since I found a bunch of
> holes in the damned thing.  Any suggestions on what sort of muffler I
> should get?  I would like to get a performance one, but I won't be able
> to mod the engine for a while, so I need one that will work well with
> stock and non.

Stock ones are still available a few places and they fit the best of all the 
options. They are expensive, however, and I still have a few. There are lots of 
rather inexpensive header exhausts available which don't fit as well, but are 
not too bad and are also fairly cheap.

>         I was told that the engine may have died--or at least this could
> have contributed to it--from overheating.  Should I worry about
> overheating with all the gaps in the housing, the gaps in the elbows from
> the muffler connecting to the crankcase, etc.?  Also, for the elbows, do
> I need new ones, or simply the seals that go around them (the ones that
> were there have dried up and more or less fell apart)?  Could someone
> direct me to what other gaskets, what other things I should check for
> tightness, etc. for the cooling system?  If this is easily found in the
> Bentley, then I'll just wait till that arrives.

Concentrate your cooling concerns on the intake and follow thru from there, 
following the cooling air thru the engine. There are 2 basic points to keep in 
mind: Make sure you don't suck in hot air to cool the engine with, and don't 
let your cooling air leak out of the engine before it has had a chance to run 
all the way thru it.

>         I tightened the lower head nuts to somewhere between 20 and 25
> foot pounds (my torque wrench only has notches for the 5lbs marks with
> only a small area between them), probably more in the 23-24 area, yet the
> sound remains from the #3 cyl area.

Did you find any loose nuts among those 4? Have you done a compression test?

>         Then I have some questions with the front end suspension.  As I
> have mentioned, my car had been towed and they had fucked up the front
> end (the tower didn't remove the jack and jack stand, but instead
> pulled/pushed the car off them with the towing equipment) and now the
> tires won't clear and the front end is at least an inch lower, probably
> 2" or more though. 

It would be extremely unlikely to do this kind of damage from any kind of 
towing. It is more likely that some previous owner has lowered the car.

> I know the shocks are completely shot and I need new
> ones, and I was trying to find the steering knuckle to see if it had been
> damaged, but I couldn't find anything I could clearly identify as the
> steering knuckle, and everything else looked as it should...then again, I
> really don't have much of an idea of how it should look.  Where is the
> steering knuckle?

In general, shocks don't affect the ride height. You test shocks by bouncing 
the car up and down and see how quickly the bouncing stops when you stop.

>         Does anyone know what size/type/etc. bolt I need for the engine
> tin below the push rods?  I've only got two out of four on both of the
> pieces, and I don't think it is anything serious but I would like to
> replace them.

M6 x 1, usually slotted head, but hex heads will also work. Use washers.

>         It seems I got a project car without even knowing it=) 

I'm afraid this is almost inevitable with cars this old. They seldom seem to 
have lived long with someone who really cared for them. Sounds like yours 
finally found a GOOD home.  ;-)


-- 
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Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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