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Greg, Jim, Hisham, Kevin, et. al.;
Unless someone highly recommends otherwise, I'm going to keep the
new fan belt on (with two shims--all that were on the pulley--in the
pulley) since it was quite an experience changing it. One question with
the casing around the pulley: how important is it that this be sealed? It
was bent to begin with, and then when I changed the belt I managed to
bend it some more so that a part of it would hit a part of the pulley
which is bent outwards and made a horrible noise, and in order to fix it
I had to bend the casing towards the generator so now there is a small
gap between the cover and that edge of the casing...should I take the
time to fix this ASAP, or when I get around to it?
The valves were tight enough not to even allow a .04mm gauge to
slide through at all, and so that none of the rocker arms moved no matter
how I pushed on them until they were adjusted. I double checked to make
sure I had the valves in firing position by looking at where the rotor
was pointing, and thanks to this I caught myself in adjusting the #2
valves when #4 was in firing position. I was having difficulty initially
since I didn't realize there are four sets of bridged teeth on the
crankshaft, two with notches, two without, and because Muir says rotate
it 180 degrees from one valve to another, and if I were to do that
(unless I have misunderstood which is very likely) then I would just get
to valves #1 and #3, or #2 and #4. So far as I could tell there is a 1:1
ratio between the degrees of the rotor and the crankshaft.
How do I check the tightness of the lower head nuts? Where are
they? Etc. And what is the torque spec for those nuts? (1972 duel carb
converted to FI, AT)?
Oddly, I didn't notice any increase or decrease in the sound of
the engine when I took the air filter off, could this be because I have a
generic air filter (by generic I mean those things they have on the
shelves in multicolors at some FLAPS) instead of a breather? Should I
maybe reinstall the breather--for either sound, performance, or both?
I timed it correctly and it ran a bit better, and I was also able
to notice a very slight change in the RPM when I adjust the idle, but it
was still oscillating maybe 200 or 150RPMs. I'm going to ask my coworker
again how he said to time it without any tools, try that, and see if I
get better or the same results and whatnot, I will let the list know.
I found what I believe to be the auxiliary air regulator, i.e. I
do have one. Instead of the air breather there is a generic filter
attached to the large opening of the air intake, then below that is a
small opening with a hose that goes to what I believe to be the AAR (this
would make sense since that is where the AAR hose is supposed to connect)
and attached to the AAR is a smaller auxiliary filter. Also, whatever the
part is, it once had a single red wire coming from it which has been cut
except for a cm or so of it. When I was using the method Greg recommended
to find air leaks (i.e. use a piece of hose as a stethoscope) I
determined it was coming from the area of the filter, but had trouble
pinpointing it, so I checked the connection of a few hoses, removed them
and ran it to see the difference. The second one I removed was the one
going to what I believe is the AAR and immediately the idle evened out,
although was very high and wouldn't lower when I adjusted it--would this
backup my thoughts that it is the AAR? To make certain, the two numbers
on it are: 0 280 140 007 (I believe this to be the Bosch #, not certain),
and the VW # is: 022 906 045.
Once I get the AAR replaced, installed, or whatever it is that I
found to be the source of my hunting idle I will check the spark at each
plug, and then check to see how it performs with each one disconnected
(probably disconnecting the fuel injection connector--that is the 3 prong
plug that goes into each injector right?), combine this with the results
of the compression check (this should be constant independent of idle and
all that right?), and post them to get some feedback.
What sort of other information can I receive from a dynamic
strobe with inductive pickup?
I'm still not certain of the nature or source of that air noise
from #3, but I will do a compression test probably by this weekend. How
do I check the head bolts ?
I found where the hose from the crankcase breather is supposed to
go, or so I believe (I'm not even going to try until positive), it is in
the back of the air intake below a post with a few push on connectors--I
am basing this on a hose system diagram I looked up. there is a hose
connected to that port though, and it goes down, out of the engine, and
connects to what I believe is a part of the transmission (it is the flat
pan maybe an inch in height and is connected to what I am positive is the
trans), and is connected to the right most side with some sort of
regulator, gauge, or something of that sort which then connects to the
pan. What is it that this hose is connected to? Is this correct? Should I
modify it?
I want to express further gratitude to the list since this was
the only place I received unwavering support in repairing my car besides
one coworker (the guy who I had mentioned who used to build engines,
including VWs)--everyone else kept saying I need to take it to a
mechanic, get a 'better' car, etc. etc. As such, I want to let anyone
else out there who is just starting out that you can do it, just stay
with it, remain patient, and ask a lot of questions (note my tendency
towards lengthy posts=)
Sincerely,
Christopher J. Valade
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