[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]
On 11 Jun 2003 at 7:04, redyouth@juno.com wrote: > After I adjusted the valves (all very tight), the points (dwell was high), > and the timing the car started right up, but with a rough idle that got > rougher over time. I tried to adjust the idle, but couldn't figure it out > (no matter which direction or how much I turned the screw the idle didn't > change, except maybe by 25RPMs, plus I couldn't figure out how to make sure > the throttle lever is closed since no matter what I did to it I couldn't > hear the click Muir said to listen for). There is an audible click only with 68-9 models. For the later ones you need to use an Ohmmeter on the appropriate TPS pins. > I did adjust the fuel pressure to 30psi (it was 34psi), 30 should be good. > The tach-dwell-volt meter I have has 8 and 6 cylander readings and says to > double the 8cyl to get what it would be for a 4cyl, and the meter itself > bounced between 350 and 450RPM, which would naturally be 700 and 900RPM (i.e. > 200RPM variation...isn't this quite extreme?), so averaged out it is right > where I want it to be...I suppose that's comforting. You're doing this right, but it sounds like you still have a problem somewhere. Some idle variation is normal; they're never as stable as modern cars, but this sounds extreme. > Then just recently I was looking at the dash while it was idleing and I > noticed that when it dropped way down the generator light would go on, then > go off when it picked up RPMs again, so believing this to be because of the > fan belt, I went to tighten it. Turned out all the shims had already been > removed, so I put in a new belt, and the crankshaft now turns with ease when > I rotate the nut on the generator. Your belt was fine. The speed was just dropping so low that the generator wouldn't put out enough voltage. This is exactly normal for the charging system. I suggest you put things back. You DON'T want the belt to be too tight; the only result will be premature belt and bearing failure. > I had noticed that somehow there is a compression leak in #3, It's not likely to be a spark plug. Have you actually checked compression? Have you checked the tightness of the lower head nuts? Do this cold, with a torque wrench to the SPEC! > There is another air sound (probably a sucking sound) coming from either the > air filter or around it. It is normal to have intake noise. It's even louder with the air filter off. > I then pulled each SP wire and started the car, and each time it started > pretty much the same, although I didn't hook up the tach-dwell meter so I > can't be certain if there was change. Even when I took #3 and #4 off I got > the same result. This is a good test to do, but the way to do it is to loosen all 4 wires at the dist and then start the car. Stand clear of the car, no other part of your body touching any part of the car, and using just one hand, pull off 1 wire from the dist cap. Listen for any decrease in speed as you do this. Reinstall this wire and move to the next one. Compare your results. > Another problem I had was with static timing. When I hooked up the light > and turned the engine the light came on before the timing mark and stayed on > until after it passed- The light should come on just as the correct timing mark comes by. A real, dynamic strobe, timing light is more accurate, however, and will tell you lots of other useful info. Get one with an inductive pickup (clamps around the SP wire.) -- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org