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[T3] Engine started! As did new problems...


After I adjusted the valves (all very tight), the points (dwell was high), and the timing the car started right up, but with a rough idle that got rougher over time.  I tried to adjust the idle, but couldn't figure it out (no matter which direction or how much I turned the screw the idle didn't change, except maybe by 25RPMs, plus I couldn't figure out how to make sure the throttle lever is closed since no matter what I did to it I couldn't hear the click Muir said to listen for).  I did adjust the fuel pressure to 30psi (it was 34psi), but this made no noticable difference in the engine--actually, it sounded like it was going to stall when I was adjusting it.  The tach-dwell-volt meter I have has 8 and 6 cylander readings and says to double the 8cyl to get what it would be for a 4cyl, and the meter itself bounced between 350 and 450RPM, which would naturally be 700 and 900RPM (i.e. 200RPM variation...isn't this quite extreme?), so averaged out it is right where I want it to be...I suppose that's comforting.  I think it would be worthy to note that I don't have an auxilary air regulator, and that the little piece that the hose from that would attach to on the air intake distributor is blocked with a lil piece of rubber which seems to have been made for that purpose.

Then just recently I was looking at the dash while it was idleing and I noticed that when it dropped way down the generator light would go on, then go off when it picked up RPMs again, so believing this to be because of the fan belt, I went to tighten it.  Turned out all the shims had already been removed, so I put in a new belt, and the crankshaft now turns with ease when I rotate the nut on the generator.  But I have the same results--rough idle, the variation, gen light (would this be because the car is nearly stalled?), etc.

I had noticed that somehow there is a compression leak in #3, which may be because I don't have the SP tight enough (a problem I have had befoer), but I have tightened it as much as I can with the same result--this doesn't mean it is as tight as I can get it though since that is the most difficult SP to deal with cause of all the stuff in the way.  It isn't very loud, but it is there, and can be heard when simply turning the engine slowly (I looked at the rotor while doing this is and that is how I first pinpointed it to #3, besides that it sounds like it is coming from there).

There is another air sound (probably a sucking sound) coming from either the air filter or around it.  This may be normal since I had barely paid attention to the engine in anyway until it broke down, but from what I recall this is a new sound.  Could I have damaged the filter and thus that be causing the noise?

I then pulled each SP wire and started the car, and each time it started pretty much the same, although I didn't hook up the tach-dwell meter so I can't be certain if there was change.  Even when I took #3 and #4 off I got the same result.

Another problem I had was with static timing.  When I hooked up the light and turned the engine the light came on before the timing mark and stayed on until after it passed--is it supposed to turn on right when it hits the mark?  If so, would I simply rotate the dist counterclockwise until that occurs?

Overall though, I want to thank everyone who has been helping me out so far, I couldn't have gotten it to even start without the list.  This has also very powerfully reinforced my skepticism of mechanics when it comes to this car since the last thing my friend had said to me about it was "This car has really got me stumped; I've got no idea what could be wrong," and then mentioned some quite drastic things he wanted to try--good thing I realized that he would probably end up doing more harm than good!  

Sincerely,
Christopher J. Valade

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