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On 6 Jun 2003 at 1:56, Chris J Valade wrote: > I ended up buying a OEM 12V-Super since they were completely out of Bosch > (the one FLAPS I could find that even carries Bosch coils), although he > said that if I wanted I could come back in about 2 or 3 weeks and > exchange this coil for a Bosch black. Anyhow, I ran the same tests, and > got the same results: Pretty sure the coil is not the problem. The Mexican Bosch Blue coils have a poor track record and only seem to last about a year. They probably can't get an OEM coil, but I have good used ones here. > ~12V from the wire that gives the coil its juice with car on right > ~10.5V from same wire when turning the ignition well, maybe, but the more useful place to measure would be on the other side of the coil, where the green wire connects. This should go from zero to 12V as the points open and close. > ~6V from coil to dist cap This is just a good way to destroy your voltmeter, but the reading is probably normal. > If RR is 'rear right' or something equivalent, then that is where the > hose comes from out of the crankcase breather. The air cleaner has been > replaced by a simple air filter, I'm assuming by the mech(s) who rebuilt > the engine. There is in addition to the larger air filter, a smaller one > which is connected with a black hose that connects to the manifold a bit > further back and under the larger filter and its connection...is this > where I would reattach the hose from the breather? I don't know what this might be.... > I believe some of the bolts on the crankcase were slightly lose, so I > tightened them a tad, and will check the piece of wood I placed under > there in the morning to see where oil is still dripping from. Just to > scare me into not being foolish: what can happen if they are too tight? > And how tight is too tight? 1ft-lbs? The little bolts get something like 1ft-lbs. Overtighten them and you can actually pull them out of the case. This is a big leak and disapointment. > Alright, it seems then that you have answered my concerns regarding the > short--the CD player does have a clock, and although not always visibly > on, I'm sure it needs some juice to, well, keep time. If the clock display only comes on when you turn the key on, it should not draw enough current to cause you problems. > what sort of oil should I use down the top of the dist shaft? Anything? > W40? Engine oil. WD-40 is not a lubricant and will disappear too quickly. > Well, fuck...I misunderstood Muir it seems since I glued the valve cover > gasket to the head and not the cover, *sigh*. Now I know why it was so > difficult and what to do next time. You'll need to clean ALL the old glue off the face of the head and replace the gaskets. This can be done outdoors with gasoline or some other solvent. It will take a lot of time, but it has to be clean in order for the gasket to seal the next time. -- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org