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Various Engine Queries (was: [T3] Timing)


Steven, Jim, et. al.,

I ended up buying a OEM 12V-Super since they were completely out of Bosch
(the one FLAPS I could find that even carries Bosch coils), although he
said that if I wanted I could come back in about 2 or 3 weeks and
exchange this coil for a Bosch black.  Anyhow, I ran the same tests, and
got the same results:

~12V from the wire that gives the coil its juice with car on
~10.5V from same wire when turning the ignition
~6V from coil to dist cap

I again did the test Muir gives for the coil, and I got no spark from the
cable when someone turned the ignition.  I thought it might be the cable,
so I then placed the positive of the voltmeter into the hole in the coil
where that cable fits in, grounded the negative, and got 6.5V.  I trust
what you guys have been telling me and that it should be 12-14V, but I
can only think of one possible thing, which I believe is quite doubtful:
could there be something wrong with the small green wire leading to the
dist from the coil that would cause this?  Beyond that, I don't see what
in the world can be the problem...someone have an explanation?

If RR is 'rear right' or something equivalent, then that is where the
hose comes from out of the crankcase breather.  The air cleaner has been
replaced by a simple air filter, I'm assuming by the mech(s) who rebuilt
the engine.  There is in addition to the larger air filter, a smaller one
which is connected with a black hose that connects to the manifold a bit
further back and under the larger filter and its connection...is this
where I would reattach the hose from the breather?  

I believe some of the bolts on the crankcase were slightly lose, so I
tightened them a tad, and will check the piece of wood I placed under
there in the morning to see where oil is still dripping from.  Just to
scare me into not being foolish: what can happen if they are too tight? 
And how tight is too tight?  1ft-lbs? 

I didn't pay too much attention to the oil light since at the time I knew
nothing, and I was going on my friend's advice, so it may well be when
the engine drops back to idle.  Although, I believe I remember seeing it
while on the freeway, but for now I can't really find out, so I will
remember to check the specifics once the car is rolling around the mean
streets of Vegas.

Alright, it seems then that you have answered my concerns regarding the
short--the CD player does have a clock, and although not always visibly
on, I'm sure it needs some juice to, well, keep time.

what sort of oil should I use down the top of the dist shaft?  Anything? 
W40?

Well, fuck...I misunderstood Muir it seems since I glued the valve cover
gasket to the head and not the cover, *sigh*.  Now I know why it was so
difficult and what to do next time.  Eh, live and learn.

Thanks again.

Sincerely,
Christopher J. Valade

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