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Ben, Steven, Jim, et. al.
Alright, so you're all right, that wire had nothing to do with my
car starting or not...but the horn works now! When I was seeing if it
would work I heard some weird noise, was confused for a moment, then
realized it was the horn...all I'm going to say about that: fucking
adorable, it fits the Squareback's smiling appearance. I've gotten into
the habit of disconnecting the battery since there is a short in the car
(I believe its the CD player since although its not visibly on when the
car is off, you can here it turn on when the battery is
reconnected...I'll get around to fixing the short eventually), and I
sometimes forget to reconnect it, although I usually figure it out pretty
quick, perhaps that time I didn't=\
Anyhow I've got a 1970 Squareback, 12V, Electronic FI, Automatic
tranny.
That mechanic friend of mine I've mentioned knows someone who he
works with and has been buddies with that is, or so I am told, a VW buff
and has rebuilt, supped up, etc. all sorts of VWs, including Squarebacks
and other type 3s. I'm quite suspect of him since what he has said about
the coil has been contradicted by more than one person on this list: 1) I
should get a performance coil since it will increase the performance of
my car; and 2) there is a resistor in the coil itself so that 12V go in,
but 6V should come out (not only have listees contradicted this, but it
doesn't make sense to me). Should I trust a word this guy says?
As regards coils though, I have some questions: What is the
difference between blue, black, and red Bosch coils? Steven recommended
stock black or blue, but so far as I was aware (my knowledge on this is
very limited and new found) a Bosch black is a high performance coil, not
stock....?
I checked the rotor and it does advance somewhere around 15
degrees and then spring back...could be more, could be less, its hard to
tell. I checked and there is no felt pad that I could see, just a metal
flat head then some more metal further down to its sides. Could someone
tell me what sort of dizzy I've got? The part number is: 311 905 205
A-B. Where can I find a good resource regarding part numbers?
As regards the engine, I know the one in the car is only 3 or so
years old (when the previous owner originally got it, it had
carbs--single or dual I can't say--and at one point his mechanic
suggested replacing the entire engine and having the new one
be--thankfully--FI). Regardless though, I believe I found the number (it
was on the right side of the crankcase, under the manifold--I'm pretty
sure its the manifold--just near the crack) and I think its: T0875802. I
say 'I think' since the 'T' is offset slightly higher than the others,
the 2nd '8' originally looked like a '3' until I noticed that the upper
left hand part was (or looks) filled in and smoothed over, and then the
last number, '2', is nearly impossible to read and it is really only a
guess, for all I know there may be only 7 instead of 8 digits. The 8th
digit also looks like it has parts filled in, something (either a glue of
some sort or metal) across a small part of it, etc. If anyone wants I
can take a picture and post it. The number is also confusing since it is
no where near any of the numbers Muir gives for engine #s, either the one
I believe it to be or any other. Hopefully someone on the list can help
me with this.
I believe the fan belt is too lose since it has about 1/2" of
play, maybe more, and when I turn the generator pulley, the fan belt
moves with it, but doesn't turn the crankshaft. Should I tighten it?
Jim--the oil was coming out of the intake valve for #1, it is
because the car is parked on a downgrade. Its irritating since I changed
the gasket on that valve cover (I'm going to do the other when I actually
open it up, and when it is on a level surface) but the gasket glue
wouldn't adhere since the oil was still coming out, although at a much
slower pace. With no other option I did the best I could with the gasket
and put the cover back on, now it drips a small puddle daily=\
A few other things: I was checking some things, and before I
realized what I was doing I had adjusted the idle who knows how many
turns, so is it better to have the idle too high or too low in getting
the engine started so I can then adjust it correctly? Plus, I always
noticed this tube that was disconnected and strapped down hanging out the
bottom of the engine, and I finally realized what it was: it is the hose
from the crankcase breather that should be connected to the air
cleaner...should I reconnect this? Also, it looks like oil has been
leaking out of it If yes, what size hose do I need (I know this is not
the proper size hose right now, its bigger and red), 7mm? The push-rod
tube for the #1 intake has a slight dink in it, do I need to replace this
ASAP? There is oil dripping, although not a lot, from pretty much the
entire engine, but mainly from the bolts/screws/whatever holding the
crankcase together on the bottom, does this mean anything? Do I just
need to tighten them? There is also oil dripping from both the oil
pressure control and relief valves--do I just tighten these too? Then
there is some oil from left of the crankcase, or at least I believe it
isn't the crankcase and instead something above, but I haven't really
explored yet to find out. I knew there was a problem when the previous
owner said to me "Don't worry about the oil light, it always turns on
when you are on the freeway", sigh.
I've had to put off work on the engine for a lack of cash, but
tomorrow is payday for me--it seems that although this lil boy doesn't
guzzle gas, it does guzzle my cash reserve. Its okay though, I got the
car for $1500, so as far as I'm concerned I'm just increasing its value=)
Again, thanks.
Sincerely,
Christopher J. Valade
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