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Jim, Steven, Ben, Bob, et al
I fixed the wire from the horn connected to a plate with bolts (i
believe connecting the steering column to the knuckle, not sure) and now
the lights turn on and the car turns over, so whatever the wire was, it
was needed. Although, the horn still doesn't work.
Also, it seems that real TDC for my car is actullaly when the
rotor is pointing away from #1 since once I got it to turn and timed it
to that position, it started...although very rough and not at all today
(I'm beginning to suspect that since the previous owner didn't give it
proper tune-ups, and who knows what his mechanic did to it, that one
minor problem quickly became a bunch of minor problems). I'm now suspect
of the coil since the test Muir gives resulted in a dark orange spark,
then when I just tested it I got nothing from both of the coils I've got,
but I am getting full voltage from the ignition to the coil. I then
tested the voltage coming from the coil to the distributor (the thick
one, not the small green one) with a voltmeter and got 6V--I would think
that I should get some sort of spark at 6V, but it seems this isn't the
case, am I right? If so, anyone know where I can get a good blaster coil
that would fit my engine? Would an MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil work?
And would I need a new dist, dist cap, or something else to make sure I
don't burn up something with too much voltage? Anyhow, I'm sure that the
fan belt needs to be tightened as well, but I'm sort of stuck with that
until I can find something I can use to remove the generator pulley
nut--I may just have to end up making the tool Muir suggests, or if I can
find an offset open end wrench big enough I think it would work too.
It seems then that my dist was installed incorrectly, since the
rotor doesn't move by hand, and the number begins with 311.
I'm aware it should be .006", although I though it was .15mm
instead of .08mm. I tried that first, but then .04mm to see if that
would even fit and to get myself acquanted with where it was supposed to
slide through. Besides all that though, it turns out I have long studs
and based on what Muir said I believe the gauge I need is different for
that reason and I have no idea what it is.
Next time I check out the valves (I wait till the sun has been
down for awhile so I don't burn myself on the hot concrete--its been
getting up to 100/42C in Vegas, the normal temp that is, so the concrete
is even better) I will also check #3. From what I remember (I didn't
look that carefully) the valve springs were either the same or very
slightly different, and I did notice a drastic difference when the engine
had been turned to somewhere besides TDC. I pushed on both sides of the
rocker arm, both with the same result. I will also have someone rotate
the engine while I watch the valves, even though I believe I've figured
out the timing problem it is good to be doubly certain, and besides it
will give me a better feel for the valves.
Although I'm relieved to find out why so much oil was coming out
and that it isn't a problem=)
I've been careful to make certain that the SP wires match up with
the rotor and the like.
What is starting fluid and how do I give a shot of it to the air
cleaner connection?
Thanks to everyone again!
Sincerely,
Christopher J. Valade
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