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On 29 Jul 2003 at 22:43, Chris J Valade wrote: > I believe I need to adjust camber, but the bubble protractor is > no where near what is in Bentley's so I don't know if I am getting an > accurate reading: right now it seems to be 2 degrees 30 minutes, so a few > questions with that: how will this affect handling? What points should I > put the protractor on to get the most accurate reading? When I adjust > the camber buy adjusting the seating of the upper ball joint does > clockwise increase or decrease positive camber? Not sure what effect this has on handling. The most important thing is that the 2 sides match. Varying the camber also affects what your ideal toe-in is. You have to be on a perfectly level spot of concrete to do it this way, or you can do the math and subtract out the ground effect. For radial tires, it is recommended that you put the adjustments at the lower end of the factory recommendations for both camber and trail. > My idle is better than it was, but still noticeably hunting, > would my AT AAR not having the wire hooked up affect this? What else > should I adjust/look into for this? You really can't adjust the idle correctly until the AAR closes off. With the AT AAR it won't close off unless it gets powered up. > She will start up without me pushing the accelerator, but only > with a struggle, and she also needs a little bit to get warmed up and > stay running on her own, although after she is warmed up I had no > problems during idle, when I stopped, etc. Any ideas? Would this be > related to my how the idle oscillates? I usually give mine a little pedal when starting. You should experiment and use whatever method works best for you. > The brakes are a tad better, but not much even with new pads, the > front brakes bled, and good condition seals for both calipers. What > happens is that about 2/3s of the travel of the brake pedal has very > minimal affect, and to come to a complete stop I have to push with nearly > all my force. Also, the brake lights only come on during the last 1/3 of > the pedal travel. Do I need to perhaps adjust the brake pedal or do > something to the master cylinder itself? I am pretty positive that the > rear brake shoes are worn quite considerably and I need to replace those > (when I was adjusting them, they were still able to be spun even when as > tight as I could go, although with the brake pedal pushed they stayed > still)--could this be the cause? I think you should adjust the rear brake shoes again. You may have been adjusting them in the wrong direction; it should be easy to lock them up with the adjusters, so I suspect that you may have at least SOME of the shoes backed far away from the drum. None of this sounds like a pedal or MC problem, but you might want to make sure that you can lock up each wheel with the pedal pressed hard. It's possible that one circuit isn't working at all. Make sure you have fluid in both sides of the reservoir. Make sure your center brake line isn't leaking. -- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org