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On 27 Jul 2003 at 21:05, Chris J Valade wrote: > With my brakes I replaced the horribly deteriorated seal on both calipers > (only the inner one on both oddly), changed the pads (it turns out I > didn't harm the piston, thankfully), bleed the front brakes, and adjusted > the rear brakes. All is well and I'm quite satisfied, although I won't > know the final results until I get to go for a test drive. But based on > the condition of the calipers and brake disc I think I will need to > replace them it once I have the money--a lot of rust (mostly minor > surface rust), and odd blue and red goo on the old brake pads and > pistons, tons of dirt and dust, corrosion, etc.. Unless the piston boots had just been recently torn, I think it's likely that you'll have trouble with these soon. The problem is that water gets in there between the piston and the bore and rust forms which grips the piston and keeps it from moving freely. The only real cure is to rebuild them, sanding out the rust and putting some silicone grease in there to exclude water and inhibit rust. As for rotors, I find that they still work just fine even when they look pretty awful. You MUST brake gently for awhile, however, to allow the new pads to wear to conform to the shape of the old rotor. > I went through looking at the FP relays and found two things I had > done--a ground strap was off, two wires were in opposite spots (85 and 86 > and the secondary fuel pump relay under the dash--would switching them > and then starting the car blow/burn/ruin/etc. anything?). After > correcting this I still got no success. The relay under the back seat is the FI main power relay; it sends power to the brain when you turn the key on. Its coil should get power from the key when you turn the key ON, which should close this relay and send power to the brain. You should listen for this relay to click when you turn the key ON. Then check the terminals with a voltmeter to verify that you have power going in and out of it as expected. The relay under the dash is the FI fuel pump relay. Its coil should have power all the time that the key is ON, but the FI brain provides a ground only at certain times. This relay should click on when the brain gets powered up, and then click off automatically ~1 second later, unless the engine starts. The relay coil power and ground come in via the plastic connector. When you get in the car and turn the key ON you will hear a click (actually BOTH relays closing at the same time) and then a second click ~1 second later. Tell us what you hear, because this tells us a LOT about what is, or isn't, happening. -- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org