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On 11 Dec 2003 at 8:13, Daniel Baum wrote: > > My openings both measured 4.8 cm, and that's with a healthy layer of rust. > I'll > > bet they would be 5.0 where the shock mounts. > Well, that explains it then. I'll know for next time. Would it have been > possible to widen the opening without doing damage to the housing? I'd > rather cut the shock absorber to the right length than do something > irreparable to the subframe.. I suspect that this could have been done. I would suggest using a length of threaded rod, the largest that would fit thru those holes, with 2 nuts and heavy washers inside. Then wrench them apart to jack the parts back into shape. > > > > BTW, did you know that you should only do the final tightening of the > shock > > bolts with the weight of the car on the tires and the tires on the ground? > This > > way, there is no torsion stress on the shock bushings when the car is in > it's > > neutral position. > No I didn't know that, since it's not mentioned in any of the books, as far > as I can see. Also, getting in there with a big torque wrench, and getting > enough leverage to torque to 50 lbs ft with the wheels on the grounds sound > like it could be quite entertaining. I'd have to invent some new swear words > specially for the occasion I agree that this is difficult, but I should have said "lower shock bolts." The upper ones don't pivot much, so they can be done with the car in the air. At least the lower ones could be done more easily with the weight on the tires. This would be relatively easy with the old style lift where the car drives onto 2 tracks and rests on its wheels, but VW dealers never used those kinds of lifts, so we gotta wonder what the dealers actually did. Probably the same thing you did. -- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org