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> > > I've done both now. It took FAR longer than it had any business to. The > > opening for the shock was approx 3.7cm wide. > > My openings both measured 4.8 cm, and that's with a healthy layer of rust. I'll > bet they would be 5.0 where the shock mounts. Well, that explains it then. I'll know for next time. Would it have been possible to widen the opening without doing damage to the housing? I'd rather cut the shock absorber to the right length than do something irreparable to the subframe.. > > > Now that they're in, the rear of the car seems both higher and more > > level. Is this just wishful thinking on my part, or could the new shocks > > have this effect? > > Not likely, if they are ordinary shocks. If they are gas shocks the force they > can exert might make some difference. A shock like this would be one you could > not compress by hand. Didn't think so. > > BTW, did you know that you should only do the final tightening of the shock > bolts with the weight of the car on the tires and the rires on the ground? This > way, there is no torsion stress on the shock bushings when the car is in it's > neutral position. > No I didn't know that, since it's not mentioned in any of the books, as far as I can see. Also, getting in there with a big torque wrench, and getting enough leverage to torque to 50 lbs ft with the wheels on the grounds sound like it could be quite entertaining. I'd have to invent some new swear words specially for the occasion Daniel. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org