Re: [T3] Severe engine problems...?

[Chris J Valade <redyouth@juno.com>]

Daniel, Jim, Mike, Dave, Ben, Bob, et. al.
        When I said Îbamâ I was just using referring to the engine coming
back to full powerösorry about the confusion=)
        I checked to see if any of the cylinders were missing, and found
that 2 and 4 were missing completely so that when I pulled both SPs out
there was no change in the engine at all. Since the center prong in the
dist cap was nearly completely worn down I got a new one with a new rotor
(both Bosch), which improved starting and very likely performance. I then
attempted to hand time the engine since Iâve given up on Muirâs method,
at least for my engine, and I hadnât picked up a timing light then (I
have now, more later). When I went for a test drive she was much better
(got up that hill at 50 mph in drive, but only after I had gone up once
before at 40 mph in 1st), so Iâm pretty sure the root of the primary
problem right now is in either timing and/or the dist.
        Because of this, I went down and got an inductive timing light (I
skipped the advance timing light since it cost at least twice as much and
I donât see why I would need it). So I went to time the engine, and the
first problem was that Iâm having trouble with the idle (again, more
later), regardless I decided to go ahead with it as much as I could and
found a few problems: when I removed the vacuum hose with the engine
idling there was no change, not even when I plugged the vacuum port (I
tried the one on the dist first, and then the IAD incase I was plugging
the wrong oneöneither affected the engine). But when I suck on the hose
to the dist it does hold vacuum.
        I may have to end up realigning the distributor drive shaft since
I can turn the dist far enough counterclockwise to kill the engine, but
it doesnât even sound like it is having trouble when I turn it as far as
I can clockwise. Weâll see when I get it all straightened out at can time
it correctlyöI think it is very possibly that for a few years now the
engine has been timed enough to run well, but not timed as it should be.
        Then I realized that what you guys have been saying didnât make
sense with my dist (for one I only have one vacuum hose), so I checked
and the part number is 311 905 205 A-B, which would be a 1970
distöcorrect me if Iâm wrong. So Iâm thinking that maybe when the mech
converted this engine from dual carb to FI he did so using 70 parts, how
can I check this? And either way, should I go with the 70 or 72
procedure, i.e. should I time it 0 TDC or 5 TDC?
        I was attempting to get the AAR hooked up again (to get the idle
running correctly) and found that it doesnât short the fuse so long as it
is not touching anything in the engine so as to ground it...should it
touch anything? Or should the gasket prevent it from being grounded? Does
it matter which prong the AAR wire and fuel pump wire are on, on terminal
87 of the pump relay? Or can I switch these at will?
        As regards the idle, right now it is very low (its been as low as
600 rpm, more around 700 rpm) because of the two cylinders that miss, and
I still canât adjust it at all no matter how much I turn the screw in
either direction.
        Besides that, I still need to fully investigate the cooling
system, but today I noticed a lot of air and found it to be coming mostly
from where the SPs are on cylinders 1 and 2, and from right in front of
the engine where it connects to the tranny, there was also a little in
the same area as 1 and 2 on 3 and 4, but not as much. Would little air
from the 3 and 4 side mean that at least that flap is closed, or nearly
so? What about the air at the front of the engine? I know I definitely
need to get that engine tin so that that part of the engine is sealed
off, but does this indicate anything else?
        With how hot she runs I now know why the oil light always came on
when the PO was on the freeway, and other times as well. Unluckily for
myself he thought it was normal so drove with it on for quite a bit. This
would also explainöin partöwhy he was constantly having problems with the
engine. Iâm just surprised that this engine survived his actions as well
as it did, especially with the dry heat we get here!
        Should I buy and install a thermostat for the flaps, or should my
engine be just fine since it barely ever gets below freezing here?
        The first time I attempted to feel for the flaps I put my fingers
into that port from the fan housing that connect to the heat exchangers,
and I couldnât get far enough in to know, but I did get a ton of
grease/dirt/some black greasy substance all over my fingers, and I was
even able to drag my finger and collect a pretty substantive
amountöshould this concern me? Should I open it up and clean it
thoroughly? 
        Plus two (what I believe to be) unrelated things:
        That sucking I heard from #3 when it was getting close to firing
position disappears when I run the car for a bit, then it reappears,
disappears, etc. Any ideas? Should I be concerned?
        How do I know if the kickdown switch is working? I read the
ownerâs manual and I havenât noticed any resistance when the pedal is
pushed full throttle.
        I am going to check the valve clearance again when I wake up
tomorrow and I will also check for any notches, etc. on #3. Unless this
notch you saw was something you had to pull the valve out to check for.
        If a pretty good amount of oil had dripped onto one of the heat
exchangers, about how long would it take for it all to burn off? I ask
since my valve cover wasnât leaking today like yesterday, but once I got
her home it was smoking nearly as bad if not as bad as yesterday.
        Iâm still going to do a few things and test a few things, I was
also curious as to what could cause a rich mixture for an electronic FI?