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Jim, et. al.; With hesitation I went to check the oil light, and it checked out: it came on when the key is turned to the ON position, and turned off once the engine started. When I was doing this I noticed that if anything was different she started a tad easier today, but with the same problems. I turned the engine all the way and again, if anything it was easier then yesterday when I timed her, and if I went backwards (which I did ever two turns clockwise) I heard no difference. Since I was paying high attention to any sounds I may be hearing something that has always been there, especially since the noise sounds like nothing important, but anyhow I heard some creaking when it was a little past TDC for #1--I only noticed it then, so it may have been there while I turned the entire thing, but since it didn't sound worrisome I just moved on to your next suggestion. I drained the oil, and here is where I found some hints, but first the less worrisome results: there was a small piece of paper or something in the oil, although this may have been from the paper towels I used to dry my oil pan (I cleaned and dried it so as to know everything in there was also in the engine). Also, there was a sort of gel like substance I noticed after I took the strainer off hanging from the tube the oil is sucked through to get to the rest of the engine which dropped off into the pan and I never found anything in the oil when I was moving my hand around in it. If there was any metal it was only tiny dust like pieces, and not many; this also could have been residues of the grease and what not that was in the pan prior (I had used it to clean some parts a while back). Now, the disconcerting part of the oil, it had gas in it. I noticed discoloration on the strainer, put it up to my noise, and noticed it had a light gas smell, so I looked at the pan and noticed that it had two different shades and what looked like two different weight liquids so that they wouldn't mix and it also smelt of gas, not strongly, but noticeably. Also, when I checked the oil level before draining it I noticed that it looked a tad higher on the dipstick (maybe a bit less than 1/4"). I attempted to search the www.vwtype3.org archives but AOL was acting up and I couldn't, so I looked in my books and thought it over. The only two ways I could find would be a faulty fuel pump, or worn piston rings. I don't see how a faulty fuel pump could ever cause that, at least not with an FI system and with the fuel pump all the way in the front axle far away from anything oil related--how does a faulty FP cause that anyhow? So my conclusion is that when the engine was running on next to no oil it wore the rings out just enough to allow fuel to leak into the oil. If this is all it is, at least it is cheaper to repair than some other things that could have occurred...would this explain all my symptoms? Also, there seemed to be more crud than there should of on the oil pan/plate, whatever that black thing is where the oil drain is located. I would expect next to no crud since although it hasn't been cleaned in over 4 months, the engine has been run for maybe 30 miles (I got 27 from what the odometer is and what I last recorded it as before I changed the oil which means it probably had 10 miles less, and added up for all the times I ran it but didn't drive it). The spark plugs were also interesting. They all had a small amount of carbon deposit (they are were changed shortly after the oil was 4 months ago) causing the top of each to be blackened (some worse than others), but not with enough carbon to really leave a residue on my finger. I would assume this occurred since I ran the car quite a bit without getting the timing just right first. In addition, the boots that go around the spark plugs were all melted, with 1 and 2 only having small melted parts, and number 3 being melted enough that I had to pull it out with pliers and it stuck, but with nothing left on the crankcase or spark plug (I don't have a boot for 4). Then 1 was a bit tight and I think there are 1 or 2 small metal shavings on it, or it could be the anti-seize stuff I used having been heated up enough or drying. The hose attached to the pressure sensor was firmly clamped to both ends, and I made certain it wasn't clogged, even though I can't imagine how that would occur. One thing I remembered that I'm now lightly concerned about is that after I had put everything in the engine back in I dropped a small piece of rubber into the pulley housing and was never able to get it out (at the time I had just put the intake boot back on and had finished bolting the housing on and I didn't want to go through all the trouble of removing and installing it again since I couldn't see how that would cause a problem). So...could that cause a problem? Now that I have some idea of what is wrong I feel much better, even if it may mean a lot of work. Sincerely, Christopher J. Valade ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org