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On 20 Apr 2003 at 9:00, Tad Heckaman wrote: > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Adney [mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org] > On 19 Apr 2003 at 22:50, Tad Heckaman wrote: > > > We hooked the mechanical fuel pump up to the fuel lines, and it seems > > to be running fine. The car had fuel injection since it was made, so > > it had a electric pump. When the PO switched over to carbs he used the > > > electric pump, but since it went too fast, he "installed" a regulator > > into the fuel system. I suppose the mechanical pump has been running > > for 30+ years without any fuel? > > I've used the FI electric pump and FI regulator with an additional > regulator to > get the pressure down to the correct ~5 psi for carbs. This works fine. > If you > have hooked the mech pump now I hope you have disconnected the > electrical pump, > otherwise you'll have way too much pressure and the engine will run > rich. > >>>>>>>>>>>>>> > Yes, we removed the pump, because it didn't even run. > > The car runs WAY too rich, and the idle is too low. The engine dies if > > > I lift up on the pedal, but if I keep the rpm up, it runs pretty well. > > > I need to figure whether the carbs are just too rich, or if it's the > > wrong jets. > > See above. > > > I had to replace the coil, and after we ran it once, we turned the > > distributor around a little bit. That reduced a lot of the backfiring > > and smoke, and improved the smoothness of the engine. The distributor > > seems to be in good condition, all the points are nice and clean. > > Don't try to time it by feel or ear. Do it right. You can even do this > statically if you don't have a timing light. You should also make sure > that the > advance mechanism(s) are working smoothly or your performance will be > awful. > >>>>>>>> > Well, I have a timing light, but I don't know what RPM I need, so I was > going to time it statically anyway. Set it to TDC at idle. You can do that either statically or with the timing light. The timing light will also tell you whether the mech advance is working. > > The electrical system is still in poor shape, when I turn the turn > > signals on, both the arrows light up. I don't know if that's normal > > or not. The light switch works, when I pull it out, the dash lights go > > on, I don't see the headlights, nor the running lights, so I guess > > they are burnt out. There is a button between the speedo and the > > clock, but I just cant figure out what it is. What's it used for? > > Both TS lights DO light up together. Headlight problems could be lamps, > fuses, > connections, or grounds. The red button is a low brake fluid warning > light. > Ok, maybe I should rig up the lights so the arrows actually tell me what > side is on. :-) That would be cool, but I strongly encourage you to get everything working right BEFORE you start to change things. If you don't you'll be stuck wondering whether the problems you have are old or of your own creation. The TS circuit is also not simple. You'll need the wiring diagrams in the manual. > > That's all I can think of now, the wheels do turn, and when it got > > spinning, the spring wrapped around the drum snapped off, making a > > loud pop. We thought we broke it until we saw it lying on the ground. > > That was entertaining. > > The spring was a dealer add-on to damp vibrations which come out as > brake > squeal. Other than the ones I've added in the last decade I've never > seen > another since I sold my 68 in the late 70s. (Big mistake!) -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org