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<x-charset ISO-8859-1>>dennis perusse wrote at 9/21/02 11:04:52 PM Central Daylight Time: >but what about the ignition. It says that >he will be using an OEM Bosch distributor. Now >that¡¦s all fine and dandy but the devil is in the >details. One, is this distributor a vacuum advance, a >>centrifugal advance, or a bit of both. Now since you >are not running a Fuel Injected system you should be >able to run a Bosch 009 with an electronic ignition >unless I am seriously mistaken. I'm currently running an 009 dizzy with my dual carbs, and haven't had any trouble in the last 9 years with it. I'm only checking it in the spring before summer when I really rack up the miles. >All of those parts are great but are the Johnson >lifters that are mentioned hydraulic lifters by any >chance? Again, in my humble opinion, longevity is at >least equal to the amount of maintenance that will be >required of you to keep the car in proper running >order. Hydraulic lifters are the way to go if you >don¡¦t want to go to the trouble of adjusting them >i.e. the valves (since they seem much harder to do in >a type 3 versus a beetle). I aked him about the Johnson lifters, he said they are matched to his cam, so they should work fine. I prefer to run solids (non hydraulic) lifters, as I like to know if I have a valve tightening or loosening up, although I know people who do like the hydraulic lifters ( its a maintence thing). Also the lifters are the same if they are type3 or type1 as its the same came with the same internals. >Are you going to keep the original transmission in >the car or will you purchase either a new or rebuilt >one? I¡¦ve heard of a transmission called a frequent >flyer transmission which is supposedly geared better >for the highway than stock transmissions. Are you talking about a freeway flier transmission? It shouldn't make that much difference as they are both geared to the car they came with. You didn't hear from John J. complaining about gearing going to Parma from Detriot and back did you? >Here is another issue that I am not sure that many >have not thought about; the tires. Are the stock ones >going to be used? Are they some sort of aftermarket >ones on the car currently? Weight can certainly be a >problem if they are not quite matched up with the car. Well tires are an individual choice, but most people run something equivalent to stock, ie.165 or 185 or 195 something , they are usually carefull not to get to small and mess things up.Weight on the other hand is not a problem for most of us as we try to over load the car, but just can't seem to do it.:) >Yes a glass pack muffler system will allow the engine >to breathe, but consider this; the noise of the engine >to your ears. I must confess it is a great choice you >want to make and if their ever becomes a problem in your engine than you will certainly know. If fact many of your neighbors hear it as well. If I may you >might want to look for a Dual-Quietpack muffler system >which allows good exhaust flow but will be quieter not >only for you but for everyone else as well. I agree, I used to have a cherry bomb muffler (glasspack type) for years, loved the sound even if the neighbors and the police didn't, but I finally got to the point where I wanted to hear the engine, so I put on a set of dual QPs. I really like them and now I can hear the carbs opening up! >And while the subject on longevity is pursued lets >look at the oil system. Now personally I wouldn¡¦t >worry too much about which oil filter you¡¦re going to >use. Where it has been mentioned that it is a mild >street, and a slight upgrade from stock and also that >you are a mild driver than does it really matter? It >probably does in the long run but in the short term as >long as you follow the maintenance schedule and change >it often enough you will have many a day to figure out >which works best for you and for your conditions that >you¡¦ll be driving in. I personally haven't gone to the full filter route yet, as I normally change my oil every 2000 miles whether it needs it or not anyway,( if it was good enough for VW its good enough for me) and I usually do it on tune up day; check/set valves, change oil, check that all lights work . Someday I'll add full flow oil filter and maybe a deep sump to go with it, but I don't know how deep I want to go as I have a lot of high curbs and weird driveways that I enter/exit plus I'm already a little low in the rear from it settling (is that dark side stuff Keith?). >Finally a word about cooling to you since this also >is vital to keeping you engine lasting a long time. >Make sure that the thermostat is in and all of your >engine cooling tin is working properly. Same with the >heating system too since that is a closed system and >is definitely related to the engine. I could be wrong >in my choices and ideas here but if anyone wishes to >refute me than go for it. I would love to hear >peoples¡¦ opinions on said matter. I can't disagree with you here, I think all type3s should have all their cooling tin in place, as it makes them run properly. I'm sorry if I quoted a lot of the original message, but it was the only way for me to respond. I'll get off my soap box now. Returning to lurking mode now. Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof ------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/ </x-charset>