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On 8 May 2002, at 8:30, jason.smith@sarcom.com wrote: > FYI, I found various tests in the "Idiots Guide" for the Pressure Sensor. > Like testing for resistance to ground and sucking on the vacuum hose to the > sensor to see if you can manipulate engine speed. I preformed all these > tests on mine and it seemed to pass, nothing erratic, the operation seemed > smooth. You can glean all the same info from the Bentley, but you have to think about it a little more, which I think will be good for your understanding in the long run. I hate to suck on the PSs because of the awful gas/oil taste it leaves in your mouth/throat/lungs.... ;-p > The tests on the Air Temp Sensor were inconclusive, I kept getting a 10 or 1 > reading depending on the Rx scale I used (I'm not very good with the > tester). Anyway it runs better unplugged so I leave it for now. The resistance is = to the dial reading times the Rx factor, so (for example) if you read 80 on the Rx1 scale, it should read 8 if you change the scale factor to Rx10. Both readings mean 80 Ohms. Unplugging the temp sensor just makes the FI run more rich, which is compensating for the real problem somehow without finding or fixing it. You still have a problem, but I think you understand that. > Voltage to the Fuel Pump from the relay was good. On cars where I suspected a problem with this, I have hooked up the voltmeter and left it connected and sitting in the passenger side footwell. That way, when things get screwy, I can glance down and see the needle dipping down around 4V and KNOW that I've found the problem. The voltage almost always reads good when this relay is first turned on. > Something curious and most certainly points to the fuel lines and gas tank. > After putting it all back together, the car ran like it has in the past. And you had just done WHAT? It seems likely that you have just seen another of your unrelated, random shifts of performance and that this was not related to the work you just did. If your fuel pressure is good then there is probably no reason to do all of this, but you may want to actually put a gauge on the fuel pressure so that you or a friend can watch it while you're driving and see if it drops when you are having trouble. If you see it drop, THEN you should attack things that might be responsible for this. > I checked the overfill hose again and it does have a small crack near the > base where it goes into the body. I might just replace this while I'm > there, how is this done? Do you have to jerry rig a new one? The test is to look and see if gas leaks OUT that crack when you top up the tank. If it does, then the crack goes all the way thru. New overflow hoses for 72-3 are NLA, so you will have to jerry rig something. - Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ------------------------------------------------------------------- Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe