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<x-charset iso-8859-1>Just to further clarify, you simply can't add/remove material on the object haphazardly because the item will become unbalanced. You want the part to be in balance/harmony/ying to the yang :) When parts start moving in an engine, they move FAST, and suddenly a tiny weight difference becomes a BIG difference. It's all physics and mind-twisting stuff like that with plenty of math to scare little children away. Toby "I love physics but not the math" Erkson air_cooled_nut@pobox.com '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed '95 VW Jetta III GL 2.0L, P-Chip, Jamex suspension, 2.25" MagnaFlow exhaust, etc. Portland, Oregon, http://www.icbm.org/ >-----Original Message----- >... >> Is this sufficient? Or do I need to get a machine shop to >balance my stuff? >> >> And how do I go about this? Do I mount the rods of the crank and take just >> that assembly in? Are the rods done separately from the crank? > >I often do my own pistons since it only requires a good scale and an ordinary >lathe. You just remove metal from the balancing knobs under the skirt. I try >to get mine to within 0.1gm. > >Rods should be done "end-for-end" which means that you get all the small >ends to weigh the same and all the big ends to weigh the same... > >I have always sent my stuff to Berg, however, because the rotating stuff >takes special equipment to do correctly and they just charge a >flat rate... ------------------------------------------------------------------- Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe </x-charset>