RE: [T3] Crank/Rod Balancing

["Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.com>]

<x-charset iso-8859-1>Just to further clarify, you simply can't add/remove material on the object
haphazardly because the item will become unbalanced.  You want the part to
be in balance/harmony/ying to the yang :)  When parts start moving in an
engine, they move FAST, and suddenly a tiny weight difference becomes a BIG
difference.  It's all physics and mind-twisting stuff like that with plenty
of math to scare little children away.

  Toby "I love physics but not the math" Erkson
  air_cooled_nut@pobox.com
  '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed
  '95 VW Jetta III GL 2.0L, P-Chip, Jamex suspension, 2.25" MagnaFlow
exhaust, etc.
  Portland, Oregon, http://www.icbm.org/

>-----Original Message-----
>...
>> Is this sufficient? Or do I need to get a machine shop to 
>balance my stuff?
>> 
>> And how do I go about this? Do I mount the rods of the crank and take
just
>> that assembly in? Are the rods done separately from the crank?
>
>I often do my own pistons since it only requires a good scale and an
ordinary 
>lathe. You just remove metal from the balancing knobs under the skirt. I
try 
>to get mine to within 0.1gm.  
>
>Rods should be done "end-for-end" which means that you get all the small 
>ends to weigh the same and all the big ends to weigh the same...
>
>I have always sent my stuff to Berg, however, because the rotating stuff 
>takes special equipment to do correctly and they just charge a 
>flat rate...

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe

</x-charset>