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On 6 Mar 2002, at 0:52, Justin C. Earl wrote: > Thanks for the input! I went to the Gene Berg website and quite frankly it is a > little annoying. There are no prices, no 800 number, and very few pictures. > They could really learn a thing or two from Aircooled.net as far as layout, > product info, pictures of products, etc. is concerned. Can you tell me more > about what is included for $140? And the procedure? Will I have to cut my rear > motor mount, or does their kit prevent me from having to do this? Web sites are misleading. Berg certainly doesn't put much effort into theirs. Buy a catalog, they're full of info and well worth the price. > Also, I have just now found several references to how BAD it is to run a > line bored case.... meanwhile, I got my freshly line bored (.020" over, > .040" thrust) case back from the machine shop today. IMO, what you want to avoid is a case that has had a hard life, especially if you expect to work it hard yourself. Don't expect to restore a badly damaged case, but I think you can expect to make a somewhat used case perfectly good again, especially if you just want it for street use. That said, here's the down side: You made a big mistake. There was no reason to bore THIS case. One of the reasons I wrote up the engine rebuild instructions that I did and passed around last week was so that people wouldn't be tempted to take their cases to random machine shops to have them align bored. Once you did that, you no longer know the precision of the bore. Random shops will do a random job. The reason I recommend RIMCO is that I know that they have the experience AND the better grade of equipment that will enable them to do this job right. Perhaps your shop did it right; you and I don't know, but we do know that they took the thrust out the full .040" so that next time this case is JUNK. RIMCO will remove a minimal amount from the thrust surface and then cut a set of bearings to fit. This means you have to buy your next set of main bearings from them (and you can do this using the 5 digit # they stamp on your case) but the thrust can be cut several times if necessary. The way yours was done, this cat has just seen the last of 7 or 8 of its 9 lives. So you have taken a perfect case and removed most of its value. I think this was an expensive lesson. > On a 30mm pump, Aircooled.net is saying that it is too high pressure (as > high as 300psi at the pump when the oil is cold) for a stock motor... anyone > care to comment? Anyone ever use an oil pump from Sealed Power or Dynagear? It is common to think that more will be better, but this is just another case where this is wrong. The VW OE 26mm pump that fits the dished cam is plenty big and will also fit in front of the rear mount crossbar. More oil just wastes horsepower; the extra oil will be dumped by the pressure relief valve. So in the end, all you are doing is burning extra gasoline to produce extra horsepower which you can use to pressurize more oil which will just get dumped by the pressure relief valves putting turning the energy into heat and heating the oil. Melling used to make a cast iron pump which was perfectly rediculous. You need an Al or Mg pump body so that it has a good coefficient of thermal expansion match to the case. Otherwise it WILL leak. I don't know if this is what you're looking at, but if Melling is still making that pump, avoid it. Here are 2 books that you should own and study. They should save you from making similar mistakes in the future. Volkswagen Official Service Manual Type 3 Fastback and Squareback 1968-1973 published by Robert Bentley, Cambridge, Mass, 1974 ISBN 0-8376-0057-X / LPV 997 383 / VSQU (excellent book, complete and well written) How to Hotrod Volkswagen Engines by Bill Fisher published by H. P. Books, Tucson, AZ, 1970 ISBN 0-912656-03-4 (excellent book, well written and researched) - Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ------------------------------------------------------------------- Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe