Re: [T3] 71 or 72 Variant L Advice (Long)

["Mark Fuhriman" <mfuhriman1@hotmail.com>]

<x-flowed>Sounds like a worthwhile challenge!  I'll offer what I can...

> The battery was flat (I think, he
> turned the key and nothing happened- no gen or oil lights), so I couldn't
> hear it turn over.

I'd return with a fresh battery.

> It is fuel injected, and I wouldn't have a clue where to start
> troubleshooting it. That was the first time I have seen a FI type 3 in

Don't jump to conclusions on the FI.  Probably the least of your worries.  
It more likely has ignition and timing issues that need to be resolved 
first.  A Bentley manual is what you need if you wind up owning a Type 3, 
but I think Muir gives a pretty decent run-down of the FI components and how 
they work.

> I saw a large box under the rear seat- is this the ecu?

Not sure what the large box you saw was.  The ECU should be behind a panel 
inside the LR fender.  Access it from the inside of the luggage area by the 
engine.

> I pressed on
> the brake pedal a couple of times, and it seemed quite solid, so I don't
> think the hoses are too bad.

That could mean jus the opposite- When the hoses get old from brake fluid 
exposure, they tend to collapse internally and not release pressure after 
you press the brake pedal.  That could be holding the brakes.  All rubber 
brake hoses probably need to be replaced.  Pump the brake pedal, then crack 
a bleed valve.  If brake fluid squirts out, then the rubber line to that 
brake needs to be replaced.  Look at all 4.  The rear brake shoes might be 
rusted to the drum.  You might need to tap carefully on the shoes with a 
light mallet and some sort of drift to loosen the shoes from the drums.

> seemed a bit sloppy, especially in first. Do these have a nylon bushing
> around the shift rod like the beetles do?

Yes.  Could also be a bad coupling.

> I will probably need to take a multimeter with me and I
> guess a pressure gauge as well as the normal screwdrivers and spanners and
> other basic tools?

In addition to what you propose, I like an inductive timing light for 
checking spark from the coil to the distributor and from each of the four 
spark plug leads.  And you may as well go prepared to adjust the valves on 
all four cylinders and perform a static timing of the engine to at least get 
it started.

After you get the new battery in, listen for the FI relay clicks when you 
turn the key.  Turn the key "on" (not start) and two relays will click- one 
under the rear seat (main FI power) and one under the dash (fuel pump 
power).  A second or two later you'll hear another click from under the dash 
(fuel pump relay shuts off).  If you hear this series of clicks, turn the 
key off and on several times to prime the fuel lines.  With luck, it will 
then start!

-Mark Fuhriman

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