Re: [T3] Still having carb problems

[<veedub@apartment101.com>]

<x-charset iso-8859-1>Hey Mark.  If my existing carbs aren't rebuildable, then I will sell you my
NEW throttle shaft plates (for a modest fee).  Both of them are BRAND NEW
REBUILDS with new bushings from Rimco VW in California. There is ZERO slack
in them.  I haven't used them more than 3 or 4 hours total.  Since I'm
getting NOS carbs this week, I won't need them.  That way, you don't have to
wait for the repairs.  I'll send you mine, you can unbolt your carbs and
replace the throttle shafts with mine. Of course, you'd have to resync your
carbs but...

:)

Jason
68 Notch (Nadine)

I proudly buy my aircooled parts and service from...
The Bug Stop
www.texasbugstop.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Seaton" <mark.seaton2@ntlworld.com>
To: "Type3 Mailing List" <type3@vwtype3.org>
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] Still having carb problems


> Steve Ayres wrote:
>
> => I think this was because the
> => carb for 1&2 had a sticking needle valve
> => which was causing them to run very
> => rich and so too cool and as they control
> => the cooling flaps, 3&4 were
> => overheating ...
>
> >This seems unlikely in the extreme if 1&2 were firing at all. There are
> >several ways for heads to come loose, most related to assembly error.
>
> Distinct possibility, but it wasn't loose when I first got the car and 3&4
> were definitely getting VERY hot (feel the radiant heat) at startup. I
drove
> the car on short journeys for about a month and a half before the head
came
> loose- it had been standing at least 18 mths before I bought it.
>
> => I want to check the fuel level in the carbs.
>
> >The fuel level is set by the thick (about 1.2mm if I recall right) fiber
> >washer under the needle valve. No washer or a thin washer and your level
is
> >too high. Be sure that the float is not leaking. Other than that there
*is*
> >no adjustment. Don't try bending the float arm, whatever you do, you'll
> just
> >mess it up.
>
> I'm not sure of the quality of my replacement valves. Originally the
valves
> in my carbs had alu washers- replacements fibre though. The floats didn't
> have liquid in them when I took the carbs apart. Don't worry, the Haynes
> manual is pretty explicit about not bending anything. I just want to
> eliminate this possibility from my list.
>
> => get the throttle shafts re-bushed,
>
> >If they need this, it's the most likely source of your misfire. What
seems
> >like a tiny leak here will seriously affect performance, I guarantee.
Have
> >you tried tracing the misfire to a specific cylinder or side? (You can
use
> a
> >strobe for this.) Try the carb-cleaner test -- with the engine running,
> >spray around the butterfly assembly. If the engine stumbles, you've found
> >your leak.
>
> I was hoping they didn't need it but there was slop in both- worst on R.
As
> it doesn't cost much I'll get it done anyway and hope it will cure all.
> Problem is I will have to ride my bicycle while its happening and its
cold,
> wet and very windy at the moment ¦-(  I believe it to be the R side- I
tried
> squirting WD40 at the carbs but didn't notice any change- I chickened out
> quick though- its very flammable you know and so is the case apparently-
is
> it true they spontaneously combust?!? ;-)
>
> >Some things you may have already eliminated or even written about here,
but
> >humor me -- what fuel pump are you running? Is your balance tube present
> and
> >in good shape? What distributor, and what condition is it in?
>
> Fuel pump is brand spanking new el-cheapo Mexican T1 with nasty looking
> short push rod- replaced original (which was probably fine ) because I
> suspected it of leaking fuel into my oil- turns out I think that it was
the
> very rich running 1&2 that diluted it.Balance tube seems fine- I replaced
> the bits of rubber tube. Dist seems OK apart from not being in correct
> orientation and is a 311 part no. Points are new Bosch and gapped
correctly.
>
> >Once again, and not for Mark specifically, I'll add my carb rant -- the
> >difference between a set of PDSITs just running and running right is huge
> in
> >terms of performance and very subtle in terms of setup. If you can find a
> >guy who *really knows* to help you get them set up and show you how to
keep
> >them that way, you'll be way ahead. This is arcane knowledge and not as
> >simple as it looks.
>
> When I bought my Fastback, one of the deciding factors was that the
> legendary Jay had a workshop just round the corner from my work in
Deptford.
> Unfortunately as soon as I needed his advice, he had upped and left
> (retired), leaving no trace but a rumour that he was living somewhere near
> Brands Hatch. Haven't found him yet. I will have to learn the black art
> myself through patience and trial and error (and of course THE List)
>
> Thanks a lot guys for all the ideas, still in the dark but sure there must
> be a light close by.
>
> Mark Seaton
>
> Orange '73 1600TA London
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Search old messages on the Web!  Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
>
>

</x-charset>