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<x-charset iso-8859-1>I have just put in 350 miles on my engine. I finally got my engine running last Thursday and I had a glitch when I would stop my car somewhere, it would not start, had to call family members to give me a jump after I killed my 1200 amp battery (lots of turns). What I found out (after the third incident) was that my stater injector was injecting every time I started the car even when it was hot. I found that my Thermo time switch was grounded. I grounded this myself during the first turn on and failed to put it back the way it was supposed to be. My engine runs nice now, on the highway I can only go just under 50mph since it is in the break in period. It has good power to go as fast as I want later (100mph) . The initial turn on compression was 100 pounds exactly all the way around then increased to 125 pounds exactly all the way around. I have more initial compression than my previous rebuild. Head temps always rise quickly during cold starts and stays around 250 to 300 degrees until I start driving. This is a temp stable engine so far, lets see when break in period is done !!! My head temps are around 325 even at the steepest clims for one minute with good power. My oil temps are very low is this bad ? Four adults, uphill 50 mph for a few minutes, full sun gives me oil temps that are so low that it only feels warm at the stick, probably under 130 degrees max. I am thinking of placing a thermostat on my cooler system soon. Cool oil bad ? The sand rail guys down here say that cold oil is not the best and that warm oil like mine is desireable under heavy use, hot oil breaks down and fails. What do you guys think????? I have a slight problem on the idle. My old engine used to idle very slow and smooth and in drive (automatic) it would stay smooth. This new build idle rough but does not turn off and has good power especially after 'drive' is engaged. The engine idles rough but steady and has good take off power and will not hesitate at stoplights. Do you guys think it is the cam ? I bought this rebuilt hydraulic cam from a machine shop as a part of a refurbished hydraulic kit, the machinist told me that this was a cam for a bus with good low end but did not have the numbers. What do you think I have ?????? My MOFOCO heads at this point do prove to be cooler than my stock ones, even with much higher compression but has big valves, can this contribute the rough idle and louder muffler???? I need some input from people with hydraulic cams too. I have a 26mm pump that replaced the 32 mm that matched my old deep dish cam gear. The oil pressure boost springs were installed and an oil filter is in place. Slip in hydraulic lifters similar to the stock solid lifter is installed and swivelfoot adjusters are in place.My valve train has some very low volume sound but not the usual clatter.Sometimes during cold startup one lifter some times clicks but noise goes away when warm up is done. Is the valve train supposed to be as quiet as any japanese/american/german hydraulic engine or is there supposed to be a low 'swish-swish' noise comming from the valve cover, is this normal for a hydraulic aircooled engine????? Engine Specs : - EFI - Auto - 1600 cc - Compression at 125 lbs - Mofoco 041 heads with 3/4 inch Bosch platinim plugs - hydraulic cam and lifters - filter, dual mesa cooler and fans - Petronix ignition with huge high current 50,000 volt coil. - balaced crank and rotating parts. - 26mm oil pump. - all cooling tins rtv'd LEON MARTINEZ 1969 SQUAREBACK EFI/AUTO SAN DIEGO AND TIJUANA ------------------------------------------------------------------- Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe </x-charset>