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Re: [T3] valve trainquestion and other stuff.....
- To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
- Subject: Re: [T3] valve trainquestion and other stuff.....
- From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
- Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 01:45:45 -0600
- In-reply-to: <000001c19670$7ef6eda0$6501a8c0@realmofdemons>
- Priority: normal
- References: <CBNBEJFIBFKDIAAA@angelfire.com>
- Reply-to: jadney@vwtype3.org
- Resent-date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 02:45:25 -0500
- Resent-from: type3@vwtype3.org
- Resent-message-id: <"tpEoDB.A.TFD.TCAO8"@host32.cedant.com>
- Resent-sender: type3-request@vwtype3.org
On 6 Jan 2002, at 0:10, Thorkhild wrote:
> I just got my old motor back together for my fasty. I have a stock
> bottom end, old unused P&Cs, and CB 044 heads w/ dual springs. I am
> wondering if the stock pushrods are going to be okay w/ dual springs. I
> think I read some where that you shouldn't use stock pushrods w/ dual
> springs. BTW I have solid rocker shafts w/ stock rockers and swivel feet
> adjusters as well.
The dual springs give you more spring pressure so you can go to
higher RPMs without valve float, but you will want to have a
counterbalanced crank if you want to do that without damaging
your engine case. I suspect that there are different weights of dual
springs and that the stock pushrods will work the lighter ones at
normal RPMs just fine.
If you're planning on high RPMs, then you'll probably need stronger
pushrods. If you go with something other than stock material, this
will change the valve adjustment, so make the person who sells
them to you recommend the proper valve lash and adjustment
temperature.
> I took one of my FI Dizzys and removed the trigger contacts (didn't want
> to put undo wear on them) to use instead of my 009. I then swapped the
> vac canister to a smaller one w/ one outlet. Not sure if it was from T1
> or T3 but it fits w/ the T3 cylinder covers.
You have to be careful when connecting the vacuum line. It is most
likely that you don't have an appropriate vacuum pickoff point to
connect to your vacuum advance. An appropriate pickoff will have
no vacuum at idle and none measurable under any conditions while
stand still in the driveway.
Even if yours meets these criteria, it may still be the wrong
"calibration" for the vacuum can you picked.
OTOH, the FI dists have excellent mech adv curves and will work
well with no vacuum advance at all.
[In normal operation, the vacuum advance on these dists only
comes into play while crusing at low throttle. It's an economy
device, just giving better gas mileage when less power is
demanded from the engine.]
> I put in the aux air regulator instead of a mech fuel pump for an
> added oil breather. I have an electric facet pu,p w/ pressure
> regulator that I'm going to install up front.
The aux air regulator doesn't have any crankcase breather function.
The Facet pump under the tank is a good way to go, but the
standard mechanical pump also works just fine. Be sure to add the
safety impact switch that is cheap fire insurance if you go with the
electric pump. Otherwise, the pump will just keep pumping after an
accident if you're not awake to turn off the key.
Toby can post his link to the safety relay specifics here: ;-)
-
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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