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Re: [T3] Need a real Engine


Talking about junk yard engines, i just bought 2 2.0
liter engines one out of a '81 vanagon and the other
out of a '78 bus I bought each for only $125 with the
fuel injectors, manifolds, pressure sensor(attached to
tin) and flywheel and clutch assembly. i bought the
computer for an extra 25 w/out core(plus the wiring
another 9.50). These were both from U-pull-it, you
probably won't find a type 3 out there...well at least
with an engine...but if you tell them it's pretty much
a long block, they don't charge you for all the other
stuff. The pistons, cylinders, heads are different,
than the 1600 same with the cross member...Just a
thought...

On the other hand i agree with just converting your
newly rebuilt upright into a pancake style engine.
Alot better than buying a blown motor....good luck.

- Heather
'71 Fastback Emma

BTY I saw you live in WA, and Autosport International
(in vancouver) has alot of vw stuff, also cars out
back they take parts off of...not sure of the phone
number sorry. If you can't find it i can look it up in
the phone book. 

Good luck!!

--- Jim Adney <jradney@facstaff.wisc.edu> wrote:
> On 2 Feb 2002, at 23:49, Colemans wrote:
> 
> > Okay, , so I've decided to pull the almost new
> upright engine and put a type
> > 3 in, as is good and right.  Now, any tips on what
> my best course is from
> > here?  My local junk yard has a '69 Fastback with
> FI and most of the other
> > components, but across the windshiled in ominous,
> orange crayon are the
> > letters B-L-O-W-N!  Being a born skeptic, I'm
> unwilling to believe  they
> > were talking about the tires.  BUt for $125, the
> mean junk yard lady will
> > let me take it home. 
> 
> I agree with you, $125 is too much for a blown
> engine. Sometimes 
> these have good core parts in them and sometimes the
> only good 
> parts are the generator and distributor.
> 
> Buying used junkyard engines is always a gamble,
> even if they 
> offer a "guarantee" (bring it back and we'll
> exchange it for another 
> one if this one is bad.) That can evolve into
> infinite work and nothing 
> to show for it.
> 
> Someone in your area, Washington state, is bound to
> have a 
> known good type 3 engine. BTW, a 70 or later makes a
> better 
> core, unless you're trying to keep things original
> in an earlier car.
> 
> If you're willing to take a long term approach to
> this, your best bet 
> would be to build a good engine yourself. The
> cheapest way to do 
> this is to buy a working but tired engine (or a
> whole parts car) and 
> disassemble it for the parts. Then clean them up,
> fix them up, and 
> reassemble. It's NOT trivial, and it takes a lot of
> time for the 
> beginner, but if you're willing to be careful and
> ask questions you 
> can get a good engine this way. This would cost you
> $1000 to 
> $1500 to complete, and it would be a better engine
> than the $600 
> engine that you buy from one of the commercial
> builders.
> 
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
>
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