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Re: [T3] Jacobs Flexplate
On Thu, 2002-08-22 at 11:45, Martinez, Leon wrote:
>
> Jacob wrote,
> Its the skinny one with the hole in the middle.
>
>
> ******************************************************************
>
> Oh no !!! the skinny gland nut ! Flashbacking to the Disney land parking lot
>
>
> The right one looks exactly like a standard stock glandnut without the
> center
> bearing. The center hole must allow the Coverter Nub to fit snug inside but
> not too tight . The Autostick glandnut center hole is way big and and will
> make the converter to sometimes flop around and cause the engine to
> seem unbalanced. What I mean by standard Glandunt , is the one used for
> the stickshift.
>
> Sometimes thickess varies on standard glandnuts, if they are too thick it
> will also be bad. You MUST rehearse the install of the coverter to your
> flexplate with your engine out. Make sure the converter feels snug in the
> glandnut
> and can be turned manually in it (you must hold it) like as if it were a
> wheel and axil .
> bolt the torque converter to the flexplate on the engine with the engine
> out,
> make shure everything fits perfectly with no reservations or comprimise.
> Snug straight on fit is what should be strived for.
>
>
> Anyon have a source for glandnuts without the center bearing so removal is
> not necessary ? No catalog lists these.
>
I am sitting here with a T-3 automatic tranny gland nut, and a
micrometer. The thickness of of the hex portion is .402". I do not have
an inside micrometer at home, but as close as I can measure center hole,
is 13/16".
Hope this helps. And Jacob, if you need one, let me know.
I don't have the drive plate. I sold mine last week to someone in San
Diego.
--
Russ Wolfe
'66 FB MT (It drove)
'71 FB AT
'65 Bug (not running)
russw@classicvw.org
http://www.classicvw.org
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