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Re: [T3] engine stalling/hard to start



Today I went to my car to adjust the valves, points, and timing to eliminate those as
possible problems.  I think I may have found the culprit to my woes (engine stalls/hard
to start after it stalls).  When I had the distributor cap off to check the points, I
noticed they were not moving and that my rotor was slightly dirty (black dust, indicating
to me it was hitting the black cap?).  

Instead, the Breaker Plate was pivoting up and down near the location where the vacuum
unit pull rod attaches to the plate.  If I held the breaker plate down with my finger,
the points opened and closed as normal and their gap was in range.  Now I hope this is
the cause of my problem, because if not, this is a whole other problem!  I looked for any
loose nuts/bolts but did not see any immediate cause.  I assume when I remove the dizzy
it will be more obvious as to why the plate is loose?

Tomorrow I intend to take the distributor out of the car (and note its part # so I can
accurately set the timing).  Can this be a fixable problem or are distributors hard to
repair when broken?  I did not have time to take the dizzy out of the car today and to
inspect it thoroughly without being rushed.  Since I'm a forgetful sort, I want to have
time to inspect it and to put it back in correctly.  I know the timing will have to be
readjusted upon replacement.

Some notes:
Also, although my distributor (single vacuum adv.) is wrong for a 72 FI engine.  It seems
as if other identifiable parts are correct.  My throttle valve switch has 5 connectors
and is a dead ringer for the 72 switch in the bentley.  Temp. Sensor II is located on the
intake air distributor (as opposed to the auxiliary air regulator).  My car does not have
a separate relay for the cold-start valve.

Again, thanks to the list.  This was seeming like a mystery problem but I'm hoping I'll
get it solved shortly.  

  -jim- 


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