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<x-charset iso-8859-1>Jason, I am here always, just reading and hanging , I am not in the military so I do not deploy on ships but do get sent out when they need my brains. The white smoke that you mention, does it have a very lite hint of Blue and does this puff stay together or dissipate quickly ? If it does(blue and not dissipate quickly) that would be oil passing through because the valve guides are worn to death, too much oil in the crankcase or your new rings are still settling in, this is the most common occurance if all of the parts are the correct ones. The other thing that maybe happening is that the engine is producing steam when cold , my Square and my non VW car do this and the cloud is white and dissipates quickly and dissappears and does not linger as a pollution cloud does. Check your spark plus to see if engine is burning oil. It all depends on your symptoms. The following is in relation to your inquiry on your smog test ? Why is it hard to keep your engine at the minimum of 2250 ? Before messing with your sensor, check the following: (mixture too rich) - Check compression , too low compression will increase CO levels since fuel burn is lessened. - air temp sensor connected, a disconnected one will either make your engine run a little rich or not run at all(depending on EFI version number), Increasig CO levels. - Have you checked all of your injector's spray patterns. You must have a nice conical mist, no peeing, muliple streaming or gas dumping. - Are you having vacume leaks ? check all lines, including intake manifold rubber boots and throttle body back plate. - Is your engine capable of very slow idle ? if not , you may have a vacume leak. - Is your fuel pressure too high ? If it is, you can have the smog guy tweek it down for the best CO level. - I have found in a EFI manual that mentions replacing the head temp senor with a new leaner different part number one when the CO tests fails. There is a trick to simmulate this one with a different heat coefficient by placing washers under the heat temp sensor to increase mixture if it is desireable or placing a resistor or variable resistor in series or parallel to the head sensor to increase or decrease mixture as desired. You can dash mount the varible resistor if desired to fine tune the engine or to pass a CO test. I wish to do this in the future, using a dash mounted mixture ratio meter. -Is your battery/generator voltage (engine running) between 13.5v to 14.5v) ? Someone correct me on this. Too low a voltage will increase your mixture too high I do not know but if it is too high you may have regulator problems. Is your voltage steady and not erratic at different speeds. If you see problems , replace regulator. Temporarly install a voltmeter to check this. Checking all of these will correct your problem. If it is necessary to adjust your pressure sensor, let me know and I will email you how to do this. I may have missed some items that can add to the variables, another variable are fuels and this we have no control over , you can add some of that liquid pass smog test stuff you can get from almost any auto parts store. The answer to you gen light problem maybe worn generator brushes or bad regulator , I have had both of these problems several times. If you wish to get the new solid state regulator for your car , I have a local source . These are Mexican Bosch regulators and they hook up the same way . You may also find this locally. No more burned contacts or intermittant erronous 'G' light indication. If gen brushes are worn repolace them and inpect the generator's copper contacts, I had one that burned lopsided and gave me hell, the brushes would noticeable bob up and down, especially at higher speeds, they would bounce erratically and give me strange symptoms from lighting to EFI symptoms. You say your car has some bucking at 55-65 mph. I have had this with almost anything causing this , you think this is caused by the throttle position switch ? Ask some more people about this switch, I do not know if the switch may cause this. I had this bucking trouble from the following : -Generator brushes bouncing - Loose EFI wires - Injector wires loose - Crossfiring in the distributor cap or wires -Old injectors , (pintle sicking on scuffed guides) I may have missed something , Can anyone add to this? On your rust hole questions , I had my car corroded at the back, bottom and on top of both front fenders also the bottom front of bot doors had this problem . What did to permanently fix this is to have stainless steel sheetmetal pieces welded or braised using brass. After this is done had the body work just thinly filled. Rust will never happen again there. To remove rust without cutting first clean with wire brush or some time of metal gun por pipe brush , then add naval jelly (home depot) to this and all of the rust will miraculously mely away and can be washed off. If you just fill it with a thin layer, using fiberglass or glob it in , it will rust againg at the seams because filler is somewhat porous and will accumulate humidity. this does not make metal rustproof. If you lightly fill the holes using bondo, fiberglass and or metal tape, rust proof the back with por 5 stuff you guys always mention or fiber elastic cold roofing tar/sealant (home depot). This way your job will also never rust on that side as long as sealing integrety is kept . The painted side of course is water proofed and rust prooed by paint. I hope I anwsered all of you question s , I hope some people out there can add to this or correct my mistakes LEON MARTINEZ 1969 SQUAREBACK EFI/AUTO (IN THE CAR HOSPITAL ) SAN DIEGO AND TIJUANA ------------------------------------------------------------------- Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/ </x-charset>