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<x-charset windows-1252>On Tuesday 09 October 2001 17:31, Jaranson, John (J.W.) wrote: > First the good news. I drove my 66 Square around the block under its own > power this past weekend!!!! It was very cool to be driving an aircooled VW > again. Need to get insurance and plates now and working out the hard > starting problem...... > > Symptoms: > > 1. Will turn over strong(for a 6V system) two or three times. Maybe 5 > seconds or so each. Then won't turn over again. Will occasionally turn > over again after letting it sit for a few hours, but only once or twice. > Check the bonding strap at the transmission. Check the starter bushing in the transmission case. I had to replace the one in my '66. Starter wouldnt hardly turn over. After replacing the bushing, it was fine. > 2. Will start with Ether (starting fluid). > When it won't start, try running a hotwire from the battery positive terminal directly to the coil. > 3. Will start again if it dies or I shut it off and try to start again > right away once it is warmed up. > > 4. Runs good once I get it started. > > 5. Has a slight hesitation when first getting into the throttle. > Check my web site. I have a document on hesitaion problems and hard starting on 6V T-3's > What I have done so far: > > 1. Put in a brand new 6V battery and I have charged it. (no battery when i > bought the car) 2. New plugs, cap, rotor, and points (car was last > registered in the ealry 80's) 3. Changed the oil. > 4. Cleaned and rebuilt the carbs. (stock 32 PDSITs) Did you pull and check the check balls for the accerator pumps in the carbs. They are under some brass plugs in the carbs. My carbs were "rebuilt" when I bought the car, but the accelerator pumps don't work. > 5. Statically set the timing. > 6. Checked and set all valves to 0.006 > 7. Synced the carbs with a UniSyn > 8. Adjusted the chokes so that they just fully open when the engine is > warmed up. They fully close when cold (about 40F degrees the other day > here) 9. Removed and cleaned the starter per Dave Hall's webpage. Have > cleaned and verified all electrical connections in the starting circuit. Check the voltages at various points in the system. 6V systems are very suseptable to voltage drops from bad/loose connections. I am having basically the same problems with my '66. If I remove my hotwire from the coil with the engine running, and the key on, the engine will die. I checked it with a voltmeter, and I only have 4.5V at the coil with the engine running. The generator is putting out 7.5V, but I only have 5.8V at the fuse box.. That is where I am at on mine. > 10. Cleaned out the fuel tank, replaced all the rubber lines and added an > in-line filter beofer the fuel pump. It has not gotten too dirty. > > I am open to suggestions on what to try next or what to look at. I do have > a Ford solenoid that I can wire into the starting circuit. I am wondering > if the current draw is heating up something (switch/solenoid/etc) in the > starting circuit and causing it to open. I should expect the new battery > to be able to crank the engine for more than 1 minute before needing a > recharge, right? Again the thing that gets me is that it seems to run good > once I get it started with the ether. > > I would like to drive it a bit before the salt trucks hit the roads here in > the next couple of weeks, but need it to start somewhat reliably before I > can do that. > > Thanks for any thoughts and/or suggestions. -- Russ Wolfe russw@classicvw.org http://www.classicvw.org ------------------------------------------------------------------- Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe </x-charset>